June 21 – 25, 2018
Starting our Canadian Segment
Although we had crossed into Canada as pedestrians in Niagara and driven the truck across to visit Niagara-on-the-Lake, we had yet to take the camper across. Unsure about what to expect, we combed through the refrigerator and disposed of most of our fresh produce. Bill also made a list of other items in case they inquired. After driving across the Lansdowne (Thousand Island) Bridge we stopped at the Canadian Border Services where the agent inspected our passports and the dogs vaccination records and asked us a few questions. That was it – the camper was officially in Canada. From there we crossed the Thousand Islands Bridge and turned on the Thousand Islands Parkway. Our campground here was the 1000 Islands/Ivy Lea KOA in Lansdowne, Ontario Canada – a great spot from which to explore this beautiful area.
After setting up our campsite we had a delightful dinner at the Ivy Restaurant overlooking the St. Lawrence River.
So, where and what are 1000 Islands?
Actually there are more than 1800 of these islands in the St. Lawrence River straddling this stretch of the US-Canadian border. The islands on the U.S. side are in the state of New York while the Canadian islands are in the province of Ontario. Rumor has it there are two adjoining private islands connected by a short 100 foot bridge. One is in Canada, the other in the US. Both are owned by the same family but I wonder if they have to clear customs every time they cross the bridge.
The islands vary in size from over 40 square miles to smaller ones with a single residence to uninhabitable rock outcroppings. So, what’s the requirement to be considered an island? It must have at least one square foot above the water and support at least one living tree.
The area became well-known in the late 19th and early 20th centuries when wealthy vacationers from New York, Chicago, Pittsburg, and other U.S. and Canadian cities started purchasing sites and building summer homes.
Seeing the islands
One of the best ways to view this area is by boat so we elected to take the five hour Boldt Castle Stopover Cruise with Gananoque Boat Line. The boat cruised along the American side of the 1000 Islands before docking at Heart Island to allow us to explore Boldt Castle and returned along the Canadian side.
Boldt Castle
The story of Boldt Castle is a tragic one. George Charles Boldt was born in Prussia in 1851 and immigrated to the U.S. in 1864. He started as a kitchen worker in New York, and later managed the dining room of the Philadelphia Club before building the Bellevue-Stratford hotel in Philadelphia. In the 1890’s Boldt became proprietor of the Waldorf Hotel which he later merged into the Waldorf-Astoria. Some credit Boldt with the introduction of 1000 Island salad dressing (which he reportedly first tasted in the 1000 Islands area) to the menu of the hotel.
In 1900 he decided to build a full-sized rhine-land style castle on Heart Island for his beloved wife Louise. He hired 300 workers including stonemasons, carpenters, and artists to fashion the six story, 120 room castle, complete with tunnels, a powerhouse, Italian gardens, a drawbridge, alster tower (children’s playhouse) and a dove cote. He spared no expense. In 1904, before the castle was completed, Louise suddenly died. Boldt immediately commanded that all construction stop and never returned returned to the island. The castle and assorted buildings sat vacant until 1977 when the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority acquired the property and began restoring it using the original plans.
Antique boats anyone?
With so many islands reachable only by boat, it was no surprise that there is a museum dedicated to preserving the rich history of the crafts used in the area. At the suggestion of one of our fellow campers, we to go check out the museum. The Antique Boat Museum in Clayton, NY. a 4.5 acre complex of buildings housing over 300 unique, well-preserved boats. The displays include everything from canoes to racing boats to a 106 foot houseboat (La Duchesse).
La Duchesse
The 2 story houseboat La Duchesse was built in 1903 for George C. Boldt. It is 106 feet long with a 22 foot beam. It has no engine and was moved by tug. Following Boldt’s death she was sold along with much of Boldt’s estate to Edward J. Nobel the inventor of the Lifesaver candy. In 1943 the boat sank in her slip in the boathouse on Wellesley Island. The entire lower deck filled with water and remained underwater for several months until she was sold to, raised, and repaired by Andrew McNally III (of Rand-McNally). In the 1980’s McNally bequeathed the boat to the Antique Boat Museum. The museum took possession of the boat in 2003 following his death. It was brought to the museum and opened for guided tours in 2005.
From boats to a railway tunnel
Later during our visit in the area, we decided to drive north on the Thousand Island Parkway and then up Highway 2 to Brockville just to enjoy the sites. In Brockville we elected to visit Canada’s First Railway Tunnel. The tunnel was completed in 1860 for the Brockville and Ottawa Railway and later owned by the Canadian Pacific Railway until being acquired by the City of Brockville in 1983. The 1,730 foot tunnel now has a paved concrete floor and state of the art sound and lighting to create a unique visitor experience. The colors actually move down the tunnel with the red color simulating an oncoming train. Pretty cool – right?
Time to move on already?
We absolutely loved our time in 1000 Islands. So much so, it’s now on the list of potential summer destinations.
