Around the Enchanted Circle

May 31 – June 26, 2019

The Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway is one of the most popular day trips in Northern New Mexico. This 84 mile trip connects Eagle Nest, Angel Fire, Taos, and Red River. Since Angel Fire was our home base, it was easy for us to divide this loop into segments.

Rio Grande del Norte National Monument

Just west of the Enchanted Circle Scenic Byway is the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument.  This 242,555 acre area of public lands in Taos County was proclaimed a National Monument in 2013. The Rio Grande del Norte National Monument is comprised of rugged, wide open plains (at an average elevation of 7,000 feet) dotted by volcanic cones. Here the Ri­o Grande River carves an 800 foot deep gorge through layers of volcanic basalt flows and ash.  Among the volcanic cones in the Monument, Ute Mountain is the highest, reaching 10,093 feet.

We started our exploration of the monument at the Visitor Center southwest of Taos on US 68. From the Visitor Center we turned on NM 570 and drove along the Rio Grande River at the bottom of the gorge. We then turned off on NM 567, crossed the bridge, and proceeded to climb out of the gorge. After a narrow, gravel stretch complete with a few switchbacks we reached the top and paralleled the gorge on the Upper Rim Road. Eventually we turned onto US 64 and stopped at the rest area beside the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge. The rest area provides a good view of the bridge and the gorge and an opportunity to walk out to the viewing platforms in the middle of the bridge. A herd of big horn sheep just happened to be in a nearby field.

From the rest area we drove across the bridge into Taos and back to Angel Fire.

Taos

Bill became quite adept at driving the twisting lower section of the Enchanted Circle on our multiple trips between Angel Fire and Taos. As the nearest large town, Taos was often our destination for exploration as well as grocery shopping and other errands. After hearing a lot about the town, we were surprised at how shabby it looked. Instead of a main street lined with picturesque shops and quaint restaurants, we found the main route through town to be a dusty, crumbling, congested street lined with storefronts in need of some refreshing.

The most impressive area of Taos that we found was along Bent Street and the Taos Plaza. These areas contained several interesting art galleries and unique shops. Some of the shops were housed in old Spanish settler houses where displays lined every room of the house.

We did locate several restaurants in Taos that we really liked. One was La Cueva Cafe, a small Mexican restaurant along the main street. Bill really liked the Enchiladas de Camaron Enchipotladas (shrimp enchiladas) and my favorite was the chicken burrito with red and green sauce.

We also tried another Mexican restaurant that some friends had mentioned – Orlando’s New Mexican Restaurant. Here’s Bill on the patio enjoying his combination plate along with chips/salsa and sangria.

Does it sound like we are addicted to Mexican food? Well maybe, but we did branch out for some pizza at  Outback Pizza, an off-the-beaten-path spot that some friends had discovered. The fresh caesar salad and made to order pizza slices were a nice change of pace.

Taos Pueblo

Just outside of Taos is the Taos Pueblo.

Before you go, be sure to check their online calendar as the Pueblo is closed to the public for feast days and funerals. This community of the Tiwa speaking Native Americans has been continuously inhabited for over 1000 years. Built along the banks of the Red Willow Creek, the main part of the present buildings were most likely constructed between 1000 and 1450 A.D. The multi-story building on the north side of the creek is the largest multi-story pueblo structure still existing.

The Pueblo is made entirely of adobe — earth mixed with water and straw, then either poured into forms or made into sun-dried bricks. The walls are frequently several feet thick. The roofs of each of the five stories are supported by large timbers — vigas — hauled down from the mountain forests. Smaller pieces of wood — pine or aspen latillas — are placed side-by-side on top of the vigas; the whole roof is covered with packed dirt. The outside surfaces of the Pueblo are continuously maintained by replastering with thick layers of mud. Interior walls are carefully coated with thin washes of white earth to keep them clean and bright. The Pueblo is actually many individual homes, built side-by-side and in layers, with common walls but no connecting doorways. In earlier days there were no doors or windows and entry was gained only from the top. — taospueblo.com

The homes in this structure usually consist of two rooms, one of which is for general living and sleeping, and the second of which is for cooking, eating, and storage. Each home is self-contained; there are no passageways between the houses. Taos Indians made little use of furniture in the past, but today they have tables, chairs, and beds. In the pueblo, electricity, running water, and indoor plumbing are prohibited. — wikipedia

In its early history, the Taos Pueblo served as a central point of trade between the native tribes along the Rio Grande and the Plains Indians to the northeast. The first Spanish visitors arrived in 1540 searching for the rumored Seven Cities of Gold. Spanish Jesuits constructed the first Catholic Church in the pueblo in 1619 – the mission of San Geronimo de Taos. The church was destroyed during the Spanish Revolt of 1680 but soon rebuilt on the same site. It was destroyed again during the Taos revolt.

The Taos revolt began before the conclusion of the Mexican–American War in 1847. A Mexican Pablo Montoya and Tomasito, a leader at Taos Pueblo, led a force of Mexicans and Taos who did not want to become a part of the United States. They killed Governor Charles Bent and others and marched on Santa Fe. The revolt was suppressed after the rebels took refuge in San Geronimo Mission Church. The American troops bombarded the church, killing or capturing the insurrectionists and destroying the physical structure. Around 1850, a new mission church was constructed near the west gate of the pueblo wall. The ruins of the original church and its 1850s replacement are both still visible inside the pueblo wall today. — wikipedia

Approximately 150 full-time residents live within the Pueblo today. Many of the smaller buildings house shops offering native handcrafts and food items. Baked goods are often prepared in a horno, heated by a cedar fire.

We couldn’t resist trying some native fry bread – excellent – and buying a loaf of the oven bread to enjoy later at the RV.

Red River

Continuing out exploration along the Enchanted Circle, we drove north from Angel Fire, through Eagle Nest and on to Red River.

The town of Red River began in the late 19th century, when miners from nearby Elizabethtown in the Moreno Valley were drawn in by gold strikes in the area and trappers sought game. It was named after the perennial stream, Red River, that flowed through the town, coming from the northern slopes of Wheeler Peak. By 1895, Red River was a booming mining camp, with gold, silver and copper in some abundance, and a population estimated at three thousand. Mining hit its peak in 1897, and by 1905 the mining and the population dwindled but the town survived, gaining a reputation as a great getaway from hot weather and as a trout fishing paradise. — wikipedia

Today Red River is a picturesque mountain town that attracts skiers, mountain bikers, and tourists. It boasts numerous unique shops and restaurants.

After exploring the shops and securing a few souveniers, we stopped at Red River Brewing Company (New Mexico’s highest elevation brewery) for an early dinner – excellent fried cheese curds, sandwiches, french fries and onion rings!!

We thoroughly enjoyed visiting Red River. It’s a not to be missed town along the Enchanted Circle.

Farewell to Angel Fire

Suddenly it was time to leave Angel Fire for our next destination. We enjoyed the cool, crisp mountain air, beautiful scenery, great friends and pickle ball lovers that we met here. I’m going to miss the beautiful flowers in the garden near our campsite.

Keep following along as we exchange this mountain valley for another very different valley.