April 25 – 30, 2021
A five hour drive from Tupelo, Mississippi through Memphis, Tennessee and then west on I-40 brought us to our next destination – Hot Springs, Arkansas. We stopped here on our last trip and really enjoyed it so we just had to come back.
Hot Springs
Our campground of choice here (Catherine’s Landing) is really top-notch. Our site last time was a bit too close to the entrance of the park, so this time we requested a site in the lower section overlooking the Ouachita River. The sites in this section seem to be larger and quieter. During our drive here, we had observed some Beacon and Vilano RVs headed in the opposite direction on I-40. We found this odd as we rarely see this brand. As we pulled into Catherine’s Landing, we found ourselves looking at a sea of them – a VanLeigh (manufacturer of Beacons and Vilano) rally had just concluded.
The next day was laundry and grocery day. What fun!! Luckily I had the nearby laundry room all to myself and the $1.50 washers and dryers were modern and efficient. Then it was off to Kroger to restock.
The following day we drove into downtown Hot Springs where we walked along Central Avenue past Bathhouse Row. Most of the bathhouses were still closed due to Covid precautions.
On our previous trip, someone had mentioned that we should see the Gangster Museum (which we were not able to do). After stopping at a few of the shops along Central Avenue, we decided to check out the museum by taking the tour.
You might ask (as we did on our first visit) why is there a gangster museum in Hot Springs? What’s the connection?
Visiting Hot Springs, Arkansas, today, it’s hard to imagine the city as a hotbed for organized crime, such as gambling, prostitution and bootlegging. But from the late-1800s through the mid-1900s, especially in the 1930s, Hot Springs was a popular hangout for Al Capone, Frank Costello, Bugs Moran, Lucky Luciano, and other infamous mobsters. The safe, secluded scenic location of Hot Springs made it the ideal hideout. In order to understand how and why they chose this site, it’s necessary to reflect on the corruption that had been going on here for decades.
As early as the mid- to late-1800s, Hot Springs had been involved in illegal gambling. At that time, two families controlled these activities: the Flynns and the Dorans. The two families constantly fought over the city’s gaming rights – a competition that eventually led to the famous Hot Springs Gunfight in 1899.
During this realm of local rule, hotel rooms, saloons, and back alleys were the hotspots for cards and craps and casino-type gaming of all kinds. Hot Springs offered Las Vegas-style amenities before there was a Las Vegas.
Though illegal, and a felony under Arkansas law, the betting was no secret to the majority of local authorities. Police officers, judges, and even the mayor turned a blind eye to the industry either because they were being paid off by one of the families or were participating in the gaming themselves.
It’s easy to see how Hot Springs became a haven for criminals. One of the most notorious was Owney “The Killer” Madden, referred to as “The English Godfather.” Madden arrived in Hot Springs in 1935, seeking a slower lifestyle than the one he was accustomed to in New York City. Originally from England, Madden grew up in the rough neighborhoods of Manhattan’s “Hell’s Kitchen” and is credited with putting the “organized” into organized crime.
Well respected and well liked, Madden settled into Hot Springs very easily. Eventually, more and more gangsters arrived. The word spread that Hot Springs was the perfect hideout for criminals running from police investigations. It is said that Al Capone and his bodyguards would rent out entire floors of hotels.
Gangster activity in Hot Springs came to an end in the 1960s, due to a federal crackdown on what the government called “the site of the largest illegal gambling operation in the U.S.”
Remnants of the city’s notorious past can still be found inside The Gangster Museum of America, located in downtown Hot Springs. The museum features classic relics, including old roulette tables, vintage slot machines, Madden and Capone exhibits, weapons, and a documentary in the museum’s theater.
hot springs.org
The museum consists of seven galleries, each dedicated to a particular person/group or setting.
- The Madden Gallery focuses on the arrival and subsequent influence of Owney Madden.
- The Powerbrokers Gallery introduces the importance of the thermal springs, bathhouse row, and the entrepreneurs that brought gambling and moonshining.
- The Capone Gallery chronicles the arrival of Al Capone and his brother Ralph.
- The New York Connection Gallery tells the story of Charles “Lucky” Luciano’s arrest as a result of walking on federal property in Hot Springs National Park.
- The Outlaw Gallery introduces Alvin Karpis, America’s last Public Enemy # 1.
- The Casino Gallery which serves as a (for fun) casino displays a few of the actual game tables from some of the 130 establishments that once existed here.
- The Baseball Gallery describes the establishment of the annual spring training for professional baseball in Hot Springs.
We were hungry after fighting off gangsters all afternoon so we opted for an early dinner. We wanted to return to the Ohio Club (which we enjoyed on our last visit) but their kitchen had been damaged in a mud slide. Instead we walked down to the Steinhaus Keller – potato pancakes, schnitzel, spaetzle – heist gut!!
Since we had previously visited Hot Springs National Park, the Promenade, Lake Catherine State Park, and Garvan Woodland Gardens, we didn’t mind when the weather for the remainder of our visit turned cloudy and rainy. It gave us an opportunity to do some RV maintenance – replacing the replacement rear-view camera system. You see, before leaving Cypress Woods we had attempted to upgrade by swapping our working rear-view system for a bigger, nicer model. Although we tested the new system while stationary (at which time it worked great) we just couldn’t get it to work on the road. We tried everything we could think of including conversations with the manufacturer and various antenna combinations/placements but nothing helped. So, Bill installed yet another one. Keep your fingers crossed that this one works!
Moving On
It’s time to say farewell Hot Springs for this trip and move on to another location in Arkansas. See you there!
