May 13 – July 1, 2022
We’re here in Traverse City, Michigan at Traverse Bay RV Resort. In my last post I described the resort and our lot here. You will remember that we bought a lot with the intention of making this our summer “home” and launching site for summer travel. This year we planned 6 weeks here before moving on. Unfortunately, that time is almost up. So, what have we been up to during our stay?
Resort Activities
The resort offers several scheduled activities and events. Of course there is Pickleball M, W, and F mornings. (You bet we were there.) There were a couple of organized Meet and Mingle events which afforded the opportunity to meet new owners and staff members. We also enjoyed a Memorial Day BBQ dinner and a potluck dinner during our stay. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to participate in Mahjongg since it conflicted with Pickleball (priorities you know). And don’t forget the occasional Happy Hours (planned and unplanned).
Lighthouses
Traverse City sits at the bottom (head) of Grand Traverse Bay which is split into two arms by the Old Mission Peninsula. The city became an important shipping port for cargo including lumber, ore, apples, cherries and passengers. But the waters were treacherous with shoals, sandbars, and unexpected bad weather. Navigational aids were needed to help prevent shipwrecks. The three resulting lighthouses are within an easy drive from our RV park.
Mission Point Lighthouse
Directly north of Traverse City via M-37 at the tip of the Old Mission Peninsula is Mission Point Lighthouse.
Beautifully situated near the 45th Parallel between beach and forest at the end of Old Mission Peninsula, you will find the picturesque Mission Point Lighthouse. Surrounding the lighthouse on three sides are thickly wooded trails just waiting for adventure. The fourth side looks out over the rocky and once dangerous waters of the north end of West Grand Traverse Bay.
Mission Point Lighthouse
During the 1860’s a large ship hit a shallow reef and sank just in front of where Mission Point Lighthouse now sits. It was at this point that Congress set $6,000 aside for the construction of the lighthouse. However, it wasn’t completed until 1870 due to the Civil War. Mission Point Lighthouse was first lit on September 10, 1870. From 1870 through 1933, Mission Point’s light kept the waters at the end of Old Mission Peninsula safe for mariners. It was in 1933 that the lighthouse was decommissioned and later replaced with an automatic buoy light just offshore.
In addition to visiting Mission Point Lighthouse, you can also visit the historic Hessler Log Cabin, which was originally built between 1854 and 1856 by Joseph and Mary Hessler, pioneers who likely arrived by small boat from Mackinaw. As so many of the early pioneers in America, the Hesslers were essentially squatters, and had to obtain citizenship before officially owning the land they built on. They did so on March 18, 1859. On June 11 of that same year, the Hesslers received a land warrant, the next step in the process of land ownership. The final step was to apply for a US Patent Deed, which he did, and which was signed August 15, 1861 by President Abraham Lincoln. (The Hessler Log Cabin is closed in the winter, no viewing windows open at that time.)
In those early days of home construction, the white pine and hemlock timbers were snugly dovetailed at their joints to keep out the cold winter winds. The couple lived in their home for about ten years, and later it was used by others as both a small barn and during the 1950’s and 1960’s, living quarters for cherry pickers. Eventually, the house was declared historic and moved to Lighthouse Park for visitors to learn from and appreciate.
Mission Point Lighthouse
Grand Traverse Lighthouse
A beautiful drive from Traverse Bay on M-22 through Sutton’s Bay to the tip of the Leelanau Peninsula leads to Grand Traverse Lighthouse.
The Grand Traverse Lighthouse is situated at the end of the Leelanau Peninsula within the Leelanau State Park, about eight miles north of the town of Northport. It’s one of the oldest lighthouses on the Great Lakes, and has guided ships in the Manitou Passage of Lake Michigan for close to 150 years. This lighthouse is sponsored by the Grand Traverse Lighthouse Foundation and you may tour the historic and educational museum, which depicts a lighthouse keeper’s dwelling from the early 1900s. You will find a variety of exhibits depicting a broad spectrum of maritime and local history. Inside the lighthouse you can view various exhibits, including shipwrecks, foghorns, and other area lighthouses. Demonstrations on the foghorn take place throughout the year, and a small admission fee lets you climb the tower where you are treated to fantastic views of Lake Michigan.
In 1858, the present light was built, replacing a separate round tower which was built in 1852. Many refer to this as Northport Light, as it is near the town of Northport, or “Cat’s Head Point Light.” In 1852, the first light was built…a brick tower and separate keeper’s quarters in the state park campground. Just six years later in 1858, these structures were razed and the present light was constructed.
The Fourth Order Fresnel Lens is on display in the keeper’s quarters, and the light itself is listed in the National Register of Historic Places.
Grand Traverse Lighthouse
We had already visited the third lighthouse – South Pier Lighthouse in Charlevoix – a couple of years ago so I’ll not include it here.
Nearby Towns
Charlevoix
On an earlier trip to this area we had driven to the picturesque town of Charlevoix. That time we walked by the harbor, out to the lighthouse, and by 4 of the Mushroom Houses. Returning to Charlevoix on this trip, we decided to take the Mushroom House Tour so that we could see all of the houses and learn about their history.
It’s common to refer to the custom homes of master builder Earl Young as mushroom houses. As a designer, Young was enigmatic because he didn’t use blueprints. As an artist, he created homes that fit the site, rather than forcing the landscape to accommodate the design. The iconic structures’ cute names do not diminish their lasting impacting and Charlevoix is proud of its architectural treasures. Over the course of his fifty-year career, Young would build twenty-six residential houses and four commercial properties. His works are made mostly of stone, using limestone, fieldstone, and boulders that he found throughout Northern Michigan. Each of these houses is individually different and was designed to blend in with its surrounding landscape. Earl Young’s houses feature his signature designs, along with wide, wavy eaves, exposed rafter tails; cedar-shake roofs; and a horizontal emphasis in design. These buildings are creatively known as Gnome Homes, Mushroom Houses, or Hobbit Houses.
Earl Young
Following the tour we walked around Charlevoix and over to two of Earl Young’s commercial properties – the Weathervane and the Lodge.
Sutton’s Bay
For fun one Friday evening we went with Ann and Lin Bishop to Sutton’s Bay for the Summer Kick-Off Art and Wine Walk. We were given a map highlighting the participating businesses where we could enjoy a wine or cider tasting while shopping in the store. Each merchant would validate our visit by marking our maps. We had a great time sipping and shopping until the need for dinner took precedence. This was a really fun evening!
Traverse Wine Coast
Would you believe that there are about 40 wineries throughout the Traverse City region?
Located in northern Michigan on the 45th parallel, our wine country boasts two unique peninsulas climatically moderated by the massive waters of Lake Michigan. The Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsula wine trails both provide optimal expressions of winemaking. Our wines are very fruit forward, exciting and beautifully balanced. We owe this to the maritime influence of the Great Lakes, especially Lake Michigan. It provides a microclimate influence which the grapes love, and the people do, too!
Traverse Wine Coast
Of course we had to go taste the possibilities!
Mari Vineyards
For our first adventure we went with Ann and Lin for some wine tasting on the Old Mission Peninsula. Our first stop was at Mari Vineyards.
Mari Vineyards’ founder Marty Lagina made the bold choice to produce world class 100% estate wines using an unprecedented selection of grapes never before grown on Old Mission Peninsula. In homage to his Italian grandmother and namesake for the winery, Teresa Mari, Marty planted unorthodox European varieties such as Nebbiolo and Sangiovese alongside classically grown appellation varieties like Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and Riesling. Our proprietary Nella Serra hoop house system combined with creative winemaking techniques have made the Lagina family’s dream a reality.
Mari Vineyards
What a beautiful setting complete with a wine cave and great views of Grand Traverse Bay. Since it was a gorgeous day, we sat outside in the courtyard and sampled 5 different wines.
Bonobo Winery
From Mari we continued north on Center Road (M-37) to Bonobo Winery.
Bonobo Winery was founded by brothers and longtime Traverse City natives, Todd and Carter Oosterhouse. Their objective: to offer world-class wines in a rustic, yet elegant atmosphere with a breathtaking view, and a business model inspired by the close harmony of the traditions, philosophies, and ecological integrities of the region. Benefitting from the region’s strong fruit-bearing properties, Bonobo grapes are estate and locally grown with wine produced on-site. Our 19 acre vineyard consists of seven grape varieties including Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Noir, and Cabernet Franc.
Bonobo Winery
At Bonobo we found a nice alcove in the tasting room where we ordered wine by the glass and shared some small plates. There was live music in the background.
Chateau Grand Traverse
Later in our stay on another beautiful Friday evening, Bill and I returned to the Old Mission Peninsula to visit Chateau Grand Traverse.
Chateau Grand Traverse is as much a colorful story of our founder Ed O’Keefe Jr., as it is of the winery itself. Like many mavericks in the wine industry, it was a rather indirect route that ultimately led an Irishman from Philadelphia to northern Michigan to start a winery. An Olympic gymnast (runner-up); Army Green Beret Special Forces Paratrooper; NYC Undercover Narcotics Agent with the U.S. Treasury Department; Nursing Home Owner & Administrator – These experiences combined with an enthusiastic passion for wine and the willingness to take on a challenge led him toward starting a winery in 1974 in northern Michigan where none existed.
Working under the guidance of Dr. Helmut Becker from the Geisenheim Oeologogical and Viticutural school in then, West Germany industry, it was discovered that the Old Mission Peninsula near Traverse City could potentially afford the right conditions for growing European grape varieties. Key growing factors such as temperature, sunlight exposure, air and water drainage, and ample precipitation were critically important to insure wines of distinction. These conditions, combined with the moderating effects of the deep waters of Lake Michigan’s Grand Traverse Bay, would hopefully insure success. Ed purchased a tired 55-acre cherry orchard on Old Mission Peninsula to plant his first vineyard.
After significant preparation and contouring of the land, an initial 45 acres of European Vinifera varieties of grapes (Riesling, Chardonnay and Merlot) were planted. This not only marked the first commercial vineyard in northern Michigan to grow vinifera grapes, but the first winery established on Old Mission Peninsula. Within a matter of just a few years, Chateau Grand Traverse wines were winning awards and gaining notice among many wine critics and customers.
Chateau Grand Traverse
Here we sampled 5 wines each. Bill was spot on in his selections as he really liked all 5. Following the tasting we sat on the patio with wine by the glass and a charcuterie plate.
Black Star Farms
Although most of our winery exploration was on the Old Mission Peninsula, we did make a trip up the Leelanau Peninsula specifically to try the cider and wines at Black Star Farms.
Founded in 1998, Black Star Farms has become a true one-of-a-kind destination nestled among the scenic rolling hills of the Leelanau Peninsula. The international acclaimed wines, luxurious Inn, decadent wine-paired culinary events, and unparalleled hospitality have become a unique way for wine lovers to retreat to the heart of Northern Michigan Wine Country.
Today the estate features a hillside vineyard that welcomes you upon arrival, a luxury Inn, unique event venues, an award-winning winery and tasting room, a distillery, a farm-to-table café, an equestrian facility, and hiking trails.
Black Star Farms
We had lunch at their Hearth and Vine Cafe where we sampled their Black Cherry and Apple Hard Cider. Then we went to the Tasting Room where we shared a flight of whites and a flight of reds. It’s a lovely setting but we weren’t overly impressed with the wine.
Left Foot Charley
On another evening, Bill and I decided to stop in at Left Foot Charley in Traverse City before dinner at PepeNero’s to try out their hard cider. We had been told that we had to try the Cinnamon Girl – delicious!
Left Foot Charley is located in the former Northern Michigan Asylum in Traverse City, Michigan. LFC is a Michigan version of an Austrian Heuriger – a place where aromatic and flavorful wine is an everyday event. Locals and visitors alike have come to realize that the non-traditional setting pairs perfectly with the atypical fruit sourcing and old-style winemaking that defines LFC. Left Foot has a committed focus on red and white wine varietals, hard cider, and sparkling wine.
Left Foot Charley was created in 2004. Winemaker Bryan Ulbrich was called to a favorite vineyard which had been recently sold to a new owner. It was sliding quickly into a state of disaster. The excessive growth, negligent canopy management, and impending powdery mildew attack were too much to bear. With the somewhat bridled, yet honest support of his wife Jennifer, they canceled their vacation to work in this vineyard and save the Riesling. In exchange, they were able to harvest a small crop and create their first dry Riesling.
As a child, Bryan was an impulsive kid with an inward leaning left foot. This combined with the unencumbered enthusiasm to run before thinking caused him to trip and eat a lot of earth in his day. The nickname grew out of family parties and to this day its true origin remains a bit of a mystery. His taste for dirt has been refined over the years – more in line with the concept of terroir.
Left Foot Charley
When Left Foot Charley cidermaker Bryan Ulbrich saw craft brewers adding everything from chocolate to pigs’ heads to their beers in 2008, he was inspired to start making some spiced additions to his cider. But he wanted subtlety to rule the day. Hence, Cinnamon Girl was born, a cinnamon-spiced blend of Northern Spy, Golden Delicious and Ida Red apples that outsells the Michigan cidery’s other, drier products three or four times over, year-round. Don’t think Red Hots candy or Fireball whisky — Ulbrich uses a delicate touch with Sumatran Korjinte cinnamon and an even lighter hand with potent Vietnamese cinnamon for its aromatics, creating a mellow combination.
Cider Craft
Celebrations
An Anniversary and a Birthday
We did celebrate some special occasions while in Traverse City. Bill made arrangements for me to have a relaxing massage at Grand Traverse Resort and Spa for my birthday. Then, for our 15th wedding anniversary, he made reservations for dinner at Bourbon’s 72 in Turtle Creek Casino.
Later in our stay we found out that Ann would soon have a birthday, so Ann, Lin, Bill, and I returned to Bourbon’s 72 to celebrate. Following a wonderful dinner (complete with birthday cake), Ann and Bill contributed to the casino preservation fund by playing craps and blackjack while Lin and I watched.
Summer Solstice
How does one celebrate the longest day of the year in a location that averages 15 1/2 hours of sunlight in June? How about a 3 course food and wine pairing at Left Foot Charley’s? Sign us up. Originally intended to be outside, due to the 90 degree temperature, the dinner was moved into the exclusive Barrel Room. Unfortunately, our assigned table was upstairs which lacked the ambiance of the downstairs. Still the wine was good, the food delicious, and our table mates entertaining. All in all, a good night.
That’s a Wrap
As you can tell we’ve been busy here in Traverse City. We’re sorry to leave but we have a schedule to keep. We’re not leaving our lot empty though as we placed it in the rental pool for the remainder of the season.
So long Traverse Bay! See you next year!
