Sept. 16 – 27, 2022
Durango
In this post we transition from Montrose to Durango. Both cities are on the western slope of the Rockies and only a little over 100 miles apart. The direct route between the two is via the Million Dollar Highway from Ouray to Silverton – one of the most dangerous (and scenic) roads in the US. We drove this road with just the truck on another summer trip. On that drive, as I enjoyed the dramatic drop-offs, Bill’s knuckles were white as a result of gripping the steering wheel so tightly. Prudently, with the RV in tow, we took an alternate route (Ridgway, Placerville, Lizard Head Pass, Delores) resulting in a 3 1/2 hour drive.
Although not quite as dramatic as the Million Dollar Highway, the sites along our route were still impressive. We did encounter some participants of the Colorado Grand Classic Charity Car Tour – a yearly event of pre-1960 racing and sports cars. The event covers 1000 miles of Colorado roads and mountain passes. The event this year was to start and end in Vail.
Alpen Rose RV Park
Last time we were in Durango we stayed at a KOA. This time we decided to stay at Alpen Rose RV Park on the northern end of town. The park was immaculate with nice big-rig friendly areas. There was a nicely shaded small-rig area in the rear of the park. Most of the sites were situated in pairs with rigs pointed in opposite directions and grassy living spaces on the door-side. Unfortunately our site was truly a buddy site – shared living space with the neighbor. We found the site uncomfortable when we could walk out our door, take two or three steps and walk through the neighbor’s door. Additionally, motor coaches liked to stop in front of our site to hook up their tow vehicles sharing their noisy and smelly diesel engines. Overall we liked the park but we will definitely reserve a different site next time.
Mild to Wild Rafting and Jeep Tours
We had arranged to do a jeep tour from Ouray to the mines and ghost towns around Silverton while in Montrose but ultimately that tour was cancelled. After some research, we found a company (Mild to Wild Rafting and Jeep Tours) in Durango that offered some interesting options. We decided to sign up for two jeep tours.
For our first tour we chose the half-day Silverton jeep tour.
Half-Day Silverton Jeep Tour
A Silverton Jeep Tour is the ultimate way to experience the jaw dropping beauty of Southwest Colorado’s most rugged mountains. The off-roading trails around Silverton are filled with wild meadows, panoramic views, waterfalls, and 150-year-old mining structures from when the area first became developed.
Mild2Wild
We left Durango early on the morning of this tour so that we had time to drive to Silverton (about a hour), find somewhere to park, and meet our guide at the Eureka Station. On the way we passed the bus taking folks from Durango to Silverton for the afternoon return train trip. (Mild to Wild actually offers this as an option – bus up, jeep tour, and train down – but we just wanted to do the jeep tour). We found our meeting spot with no problem and joined the other couple already there. Unfortunately our departure time of 9:45 am came and went with no jeep or guide in sight. The tour company tried to reach the guide but were unable to contact him. They offered to put us on the afternoon tour (which we accepted) but the other couple settled for a full refund. After walking around town, having lunch at Handlebars Food and Saloon, and watching the train arrive, we returned to the meeting point. There, we found the jeep and guide waiting for us. He apologized profusely for abandoning us that morning. According to his paperwork, he only had one couple to pick up from the Durango bus which he did and immediately started the tour (which put him out of communication range). He either didn’t have or didn’t see a second page with his other 4 non-bus passengers. Anyway, we ended up with a private afternoon tour. He even took us places that he had never been.
A couple of days later we took the La Plata Canyon tour. This tour started at the Mild to Wild headquarters building in Durango where the jeep and guide were waiting.
La Plata Canyon Tour
La Plata Canyon was carved by an ancient glacier not-so-long-ago, geologically speaking anyway. Today, the rugged ravine is doused in alpine paradise where you’ll find small waterfalls cascading down the cliffs, hallways of glimmering aspens, and wildlife scurrying between meadows. Like we said, paradise!
La Plata, meaning “Silver” in Spanish, was mined for many years before the price of silver dropped in the early 20th century. Somehow after hundreds of harsh winters, remnants of “La Plata City” (established in 1875), still stand in the canyon today.
The La Plata Canyon route follows the La Plata River, naturally— and starts fairly smooth until about halfway up the canyon. The road becomes quite rutted and steep where high clearance, 4WD, and an affinity for the person sitting next to you is required.
En route to the panoramic viewpoint of these Rocky Mountain peaks, you’ll see avalanche gullies, multicolored meadows, and hopefully some critters! Some of the residents in La Plata Canyon include marmots, mule deer, elk, juncos, kingfishers, turkey vultures, red-tailed hawks and bald eagles.
Mild2Wild
There were a total of 7 passengers on this tour. Unlike our “private” first tour where we sat in the back seat inside the jeep, this time Bill and I sat on a padded bench in the bed of the jeep (along with 3 others). That made for an “interesting” and bumpy ride when we hit the “quite rutted and steep” portion of the trip. Seat belts were required!
Needless to say we thoroughly enjoyed both jeep tours. The guides were great and the scenery gorgeous!
The Ore House
Bill had a birthday while we were in Durango. To celebrate we made reservations in downtown Durango at the Ore House Restaurant. We were a bit uncertain about this restaurant as we thought we had found the best steakhouse in Park City. Well, the Ore House became our new number 1. The cocktails were wonderful, the bacon-wrapped filet mignons were perfect, and the sides (loaded baked potato for Bill and mashed potatoes with the best gravy I’ve ever tasted for me). Dessert? Of course, creme brûlée. Wow!!! When can we go back??
Pickleball
Of course you know we had to find some Pickleball to work off some of those Ore House calories. We discovered that the Durango Community Recreation Center had organized indoor play most mornings. Playing inside on basketball courts was a new experience for us. The lines were confusing and the indoor balls less bouncy. Still, we adapted and had fun. We even ran into a couple that we had played with in Heber City.
Leaving Colorado????
Suddenly it was time to leave Colorado. We’re supposed to head to Oklahoma for some repair work on the RV but Bill is threatening not to leave his all-time favorite state. Stay tuned for the next post to see what happens.
