Oct. 9 – 14, 2023
In our last post we were in Ontario, Canada. We left there Oct. 9 (Canadian Thanksgiving Day) and crossed back into the US via the US Customs and Border Protection Port of Entry at Alexandria Bay, New York. This is a gorgeous area known as 1000 Islands.
The 1000 Islands (pronounced “Thousand Islands,” not “One Thousand Islands”) is a sightseer’s paradise and a popular destination for those looking for an authentic outdoor vacation. Located along the peaceful border between northern New York State (USA) and southeastern Ontario (Canada), the 1000 Islands is a region of endless shorelines, rich history and unique culture.
Vacationers have been coming to the 1000 Islands (there are actually 1,864 of them) for more than 150 years to enjoy its breathtaking beauty. More than 50 miles of waters that were once patrolled by pirates (yes … pirates!) and Prohibition bootleggers are now cruised by cottagers who enjoy serene bays and vacationers who tour aboard guided trips and hear the astonishing stories behind the islands.
The islands are divided between the US and Canada. The islands range in size from over 40 square miles to smaller islands with a single dwelling to an uninhabited rocky outcropping. To be considered an island, it has to stay above water 365 days a year and support a living tree.
Visit 1000 Islands
Alexandria Bay
We had visited this area once before while staying on the Canadian side. This time we chose to stay on the US side near Alexandria Bay.
Amidst the gentle waters of the St. Lawrence Seaway there is a place like no other: Alexandria Bay, New York. The waters guide you to a place of year-round beauty—a sportsman’s and boater’s paradise.
Of the 1,864 islands that dot the St. Lawrence River and comprise the spectacular 1000 Island Region, many of the most amazing islands can be found in, and surrounding, Alexandria Bay.
Visit Alexbay
We elected to stay at Swan Bay Resort a premier gated resort on the banks of the Saint Lawrence River. This resort has over 300 large RV sites, a marina with boat rentals, chalets, and cottages. They also have a tiki bar and seasonal events.
The only problem we encountered while staying in the area was that many of the businesses (including restaurants) had already closed for the season. Something we need to keep in mind when traveling in northern areas.
We did stop in at Thousand Island Winery just down the road from the campground. There we enjoyed visiting with the servers and other visitors while tasting several wines.
Touring the Islands
On our previous visit we had taken a boat tour to Boldt Castle. This time we elected to do two tours with Uncle Sam Boat Tours. The first tour was the Singer Castle Tour on Dark Island. Originally called “Lone Star” by the Native Americans, this 7 acre island got its name from the number of evergreen trees present which gave it a “dark” look. It was here that Frederick Bourne built “The Towers”.
Singer Castle
Frederick Gilbert Bourne was born on December 20, 1851, and while in his teens started working in the offices of Clark O.N.T. (Our New Thread) Company. (In the late 1800’s, George Clark developed the first thread that was suitable for use on sewing machines.) One night when hearing him sing, Clark invited him to perform for his business associates. In this way Bourne was introduced to the leaders in his field.
Gradually Bourne worked his way up in the business to the head offices of the Singer Sewing Machine Company and became its Director and President at the young age of 36. Bourne also held the position of Commodore of the New York Yacht Club.
Mr. Bourne wanted to surprise his wife Emma and their children with an island hunting retreat. He purchased Dark Island in 1902 and had designed and built the castle originally known as “The Towers” for a cost of US $500,000. American beaux-arts architect Ernest Flagg (1857 – 1947) designed the Castle after inspiration from Sir Walter Scott’s novel about Woodstock Castle (1832) in Scotland.
Italian stonemasons were engaged to shape the granite for the 4-story, 28-room castle, 4-story Tower, and an elaborate boathouse (one of three) which housed a workshop and powerhouse and one of Bourne’s steam-powered vessels, the tunnels, turrets and other curious architectural details including a 2-story ice house (essential for fine entertaining at the turn of the century), dungeons and underground passageways. Over 2,000 loads of topsoil were brought from Canada to cover the seven acres of rock.
Jutting up behind the southern boathouse stands the now 5-story Clock Tower with four 6′ ft diameter clock faces. A local folklore is that they are made of solid gold! This functioning timepiece has Westminster Chimes that sound every 15 minutes.
A marble stairway leads up to the former Breakfast Room where large Gothic windows frame the breathtaking views of the St. Lawrence River. Large ships pass in the Seaway almost close enough to touch.
The walnut-paneled Library with many original books has a secret panel connecting to passages inside the walls. The Drawing Room features elk, caribou, deer and moose mounted on the four walls. A portrait on one of the walls tips back so the host can spy on his/her guests from the secret passageway. Grates for spying on guests are built into the walls!
Singer Castle
Two Nation Tour
The second of our boat tours was the Two Nation Tour. This tour through sections of both Canadian and US waters highlights the Millionaires Row – a group of Islands that were purchased by some of the wealthiest families in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s where they built lavish mansions that still stand today. Homes like Casa Blanca, Hopewell Hall, Win Lee Lodge, Long Vue the “Artificial” Island. And of course the Jewel of the Thousand Islands romantic Boldt Castle!
Casa Blanca is one of the most well-preserved Gilded Age cottages along “Millionaire’s Row”. Set on the downriver tip of Cherry Island, just off the mainland shore near Alexandria Bay, NY, this white house is one of the most photographed and touted mansions on the river. Emily and Albert Pullman built the original Melrose Lodge in 1880, and in 1897 Luis Marx bought it for $3,500. This American businessman owned tobacco and sugar plantations in Cuba. He and his wife, Eugenia, renovated and enlarged the small lodge into a three-story, twenty-five-room palatial mansion. The wrap-around veranda captures the main channel sights of passing ships and boats, spectacular sunsets, and views of other islands. Marx even installed a grand electric fountain on the front lawn that had been featured in the Chicago World’s Fair, and many enjoyed passing by the island to see it.
Casa Blanca
At the turn-of-the-century, George C. Boldt, millionaire proprietor of the world famous Waldorf Astoria Hotel in New York City, set out to build a full size rhineland castle in Alexandria Bay, on picturesque Heart Island. The grandiose structure was to be a display of his love for his wife, Louise.
Boldt Castle
The church in the photo below was used for rum running. When stopped by authorities, runners sometimes dressed as nuns or priests would just say they were going to or coming from church.
The Saint Lawrence River, the prime way to transport goods to consumers into the heart of the continent, also became a pivotal way to move illegal alcohol during the prohibition. Between 1920 through 1933, many people made tapped into their entrepreneurial spirit and became what was known as “Rum Runners”. Rum Runners were those who used water to transport liquor, while
“bootleggers” were those who moved the illegal liquids across land.Much of the alcohol that was seeping into the United States during the Prohibition made its way in through Canada via the St. Lawrence River under the cover of darkness. Rum running was a big business, stocking the secret illegal bars and speakeasies that were popping up all over the country. One single run could warrant several thousands of dollars profit, but it was risky.
Rum Runners had to be creative in order to outwit the law. Spirits would be hidden within hidden chambers, false bottom boats, or hidden inside goods such as sugar, toys, or even bibles. Even secret tunnels were constructed from boathouses to nearby barns so illegal cargo could be unloaded covertly. Secret complex communication signals were developed between the Rum Runners and their look-outs to help evade the law. Rum running was a short-lived business, however, just thirteen years into Prohibition, courts repealed the 18th Amendment, making it once again legal for sale and consumption.
Saint Lawrence Spirits
Other mansions and sites on our tour.
We enjoyed both boat tours sitting outside on the upper deck in spite of the chilly air coming off the water. This is truly a gorgeous area and no doubt we will return (earlier in the season next time). For now we’re headed for another area of New York State.
