May 18, 2024
Today we docked in Koblenz, Germany at 8:30 a.m.
Koblenz is a traditional German city, founded more than 2,000 years ago. This former trading settlement rests on a massif of the Middle Rhine Highlands. Its cobblestone streets, wood-beamed houses adorned with flowers, ancient market square and medieval churches recall the fairy-tale Germany of old. At the “German Corner,” a massive equestrian statue of Prince William I observes the lovely riverside scene. The famed Teutonic Knights set up their first base here in 1216. The Romanesque Basilica of St. Castor, Koblenz’s oldest building, dates to 836.
Viking
When it was time for the 9 a.m. excursions, we found Program Director Carl already on-shore directing everyone to their respective tour guides. Betty, Linda, and I had elected to do the included Koblenz Walking Tour while Bill had selected the optional (and more demanding) Marksburg Castle excursion.
Koblenz Walking Tour
Description: Take a leisurely stroll around Koblenz and explore its historic past. You will meet your guide and begin your tour at Deutsches Eck, the city’s famed German Corner. Jutting into the waters like the prow of a ship where the Rhine and Moselle Rivers meet, this public park is home to a popular equestrian statue of Emperor Wilhelm I. After time to admire the sculpture, continue your walk among the narrow streets. Visit Jesuitsenplatz, or Jesuit Square, in the heart of the Old Town and named after the religious order of the same name. Admire the beautiful old school that sits on the eastern side of the square, and has been used as Koblenz City Hall since 1895. As you explore, your guide will point out influences from ancient Rome, the Middle Ages and the Napoleonic era.
The ship was docked in the shadow of the German Corner (along with lots of other ships) so our walking group didn’t have far to go to our first stop.
Looking at the aerial shot above, you can see how the city got its name. Koblenz originated from the Latin cōnfluentēs, meaning “(at the) confluence”. The actual confluence is now known as the “German Corner”, a symbol of the unification of Germany.
In the middle of the triangular park there is a large statue. Designed by Emil Hundrieser, the 14 meter tall statue of Wilheim I was destroyed by the Americans at the end of WWII. It was reconstructed and in 1993 re-erected at its original site at German Corner. The subject, Emperor or Prince Wilhelm Friedrich Ludwig (William I), was King of Prussia from 1861 and German Emperor from 1871 until his death in 1888. He was the first head of state of a united Germany. He was de facto head of state of Prussia from 1858, when he became regent for his brother Frederick William IV.
As we left the statue and walked along the bank of the Moselle River, our guide remarked at how fast the water was flowing from the Moselle into the Rhine. Due to the rapid current she said that navigation on the Moselle had been suspended. Several of the ships docked near ours had originally been scheduled to travel up the Moselle and were now stuck in Koblenz until other arrangements could be made. The rapid current carried quite a bit of debris including a few orange life preservers which were probably swept away from the river banks. We also saw a patrol boat on the river towing one of the large green navigation buoys that had apparently broken loose.
Our guide stopped after a brief walk along the Moselle to show us three segments from the Berlin Wall. The segments were set up as a permanent memorial to the division of Germany.
Our next stop was the Deutscher Kaiser (German Emperor) – a Gothic residential tower. The tower was built around 1490 by the Koblenz alderman and coin master Konrad von Lengenfeld. Originally, the building stood on the city wall in a housefront on the banks of the Moselle next to the corn gate. The residential tower escaped destruction both during the 1688 siege of Koblenz in the War of the Palatinate Succession and the Second World War during the air raids on Koblenz. It was the only building left in the otherwise completely devastated Kastorstrasse in 1944. Vacant in the intervening years, the Deutscher Kaiser was extensively renovated and rebuilt during the period 2007 to 2011. For stabilization, another building was added on the east side. After completion of the neighboring building, the Deutscher Kaiser opened on April 1, 2014 as a restaurant.
From there we walked to the Florinsmarkt Square, the political and economic center of the city in earlier times. The old Kauf- und Danzhaus (shopping and dance hall) together with the Florinskirche (Florin’s Church), the Schöffenhaus (Accessor’s House) and the Bürresheimer Hof form an ensemble of four historic buildings, which is one of the most beautiful groups of buildings in the city.
Beneath the clock on the Kauf- und Danzhaus is an interesting figure called the “the eye roller”. Watch the video to see why it has that name.
Moving on from the Florinsmarkt, our next stop was the Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady). The church was built on the highest point of the city. From the late middle ages to the French Revolution, it was the main parish church in Koblenz. Note the two onion domes at the top of the towers. The original tips were burned in 1688 and replaced with the domes in 1694.
Our final stop of the walk was in the Jesuit Square. Jesuit Square derives its name from the religious order of the same name that was active here from 1580 to 1773. The Jesuits took over a Cistercian (a member of the Roman Catholic monastic order) convent founded in the 13th century and rebuilt it. The castle-like Jesuit grammar school with its towers and magnificent portals on the south side of the square was built in 1694-1701. The town hall of the city of Koblenz has been housed here since 1895.
Koblenz has a number of “quirky” statues. We found two of them on our walk around the area. The first was the Peppermint Lady near the Church of our Lady. She at one time lived in Koblenz and sold peppermint candy to earn money which she used to care for stray cats and dogs. The other was the Schängel Fountain (the Spitting Boy) in the Town Hall courtyard. The term Schängel has its origins in the 20-year occupation (1794-1813) of the city of Koblenz by France. It refers to the German-French children born during this period, who were often named Jean (German: Johann or Hans). Due to the dialect of Koblenz, “Jean” usually became “Schang”. Over time, this eventually developed into Schängel, a trivialisation of Schang. Today, all native Koblenzers consider themselves Schängel and love the little guy who stands for quick-wittedness and the Rhenish (from the Rhine region) way of life.
At the conclusion of our walking tour, we boarded the bus for the ride into Braubach where we met the ship.
In the meantime, Bill was touring Marksburg Castle.
Medieval Marksburg Castle
Description: Visit Marksburg Castle, the only medieval-era stronghold in the Rhine Valley to have never been destroyed. This mighty castle has watched over the town of Braubach since the 13th century; due to its strong fortifications, it was never besieged by enemies. Its butter-churn tower, so named because the upper reaches have a smaller diameter than the lower, is a beloved landmark with its distinct profile. Upon arrival, enjoy striking views of the surrounding countryside from its 300-foot perch, before following your guide across the rough-hewn stone passageways as you tour the citadel. Navigate narrow, winding staircases to view the wine cellar, a bedroom, dining area and the impressive kitchen of the Gothic Hall building. Cap your visit studying the Gimbel Collection, including its life-size figurines detailing changes to armor and weaponry through the ages, then return to your ship.
Bill’s group had left Koblenz by bus and had arrived in Braubach about 20 minutes later. After exiting the bus they climbed the hill to the castle where they were rewarded with a stunning panorama of the river and surrounding area.
They entered the complex via the Fox Gate (one of four gates) and made their way past a wall showing the coat of arms of the various owners of the castle – from the Counts of Eppstein to the German Castles Association.
As they followed the guide they passed the oldest residential building (closed to the public) dating back to 1239 that now houses the general manager of the German Castles Association. They continued to the Upper Bailey that contains a medieval herb garden consisting of two patches of about 150 plants known in Europe during the Middle Ages. Mandrake (said to be used by witches), nightshade, and hemlock were among the plants. No picking allowed!
After climbing a wooden staircase, they reached the center of the castle, the Gothic Hall, and entered the Wine Cellar.
Directly across from the Wine Cellar was a huge kitchen with a massive fireplace.
The first room on the next floor was the noble family’s bedchamber. Note the wood paneling, canopied four poster bed, and cradle. Adjoining the bedchamber was the Great Hall, a combined living and dining hall. Here they would spend leisure time playing chess, making music or occasionally being entertained by traveling musicians.
Next they entered the Chapel with its beautifully painted walls and ceiling. In the Chapel was a copy of a 15th century Rhenish Virgin Mary.
Their final stop in the castle was the Armory containing the Gimbel Collection. This collection includes a display of twelve life-sized figurines from 1880 which demonstrate the changes made to armor and weaponry from ancient to early modern times.
At the conclusion of the tour, they walked down the hill and boarded the waiting bus for the short ride back to the ship.
As soon as everyone was back on board, the ship headed for the most scenic section of the Rhine. I’ll explain more in my next post.
