May 26 – 27, 2024
Sorry that it’s taken me over a year to finally begin to get caught up posting about our Viking River Cruise.
Early this morning our ship arrived in Vienna.
Renowned as the “City of Waltzes,” Austria’s capital city of Vienna is Europe’s center of classical music. Strauss and Mozart composed many of their finest pieces here. Vienna’s musical history is matched by the elegant, graceful architecture that lines the Ringstrasse, the wide boulevard encircling the Inner City. Baroque, neo-Renaissance, Gothic-Romanesque and other splendidly styled structures, from the Hofburg Palace to the Vienna State Opera, take the breath away with their grand facades. Vienna has a more intimate side too: inviting footpaths lead through green parks and its famed Viennese cafés sweeten any stay with coffee and the city’s delectable Sachertorte.
After breakfast onboard our ship, we departed for the included Panoramic Vienna bus/walking tour.
Description: See the magnificent architectural highlights of one of Europe’s most elegant and romantic cultural capitals. Vienna was center of arts and intellect during the reign of the Hapsburgs and beyond. Meet your guide and drive into the city for a motor coach and walking tour, focusing on the splendid buildings on the Ringstrasse, the gracious boulevard laid out on the site of the old city walls during the mid-19th century. Imposing palaces, elegant public buildings and grand residences line this world-famous avenue. See the magnificent Hofburg Palace, winter residence of the Hapsburgs and home of the Spanish Riding School with its Lipizzaner horses. Admire the Gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral, crowned with a gleaming spire and colorful roof tiles. And view the beautiful Vienna State Opera concert hall, its facade adorned with elaborate frescoes depicting Mozart’s opera The Magic Flute.
The bus navigated to the city center where our walking tour of the Hofburg Palace and surrounding area commenced.
The name Hofburg translates as “Castle of the Court”, which denotes its origins when initially constructed during the Middle Ages. Initially planned in the 13th century as the seat of the Dukes of Austria, the palace expanded over the centuries, as they became increasingly powerful. From 1438 to 1583, and again from 1612 to 1806, it was the seat of the Habsburg kings and emperors of the Holy Roman Empire, and thereafter until 1918 the seat of the Emperors of Austria. Since then, the palace has continued in its role as the seat of the head of state and is today used by the Austrian Federal President.
Wikipedia
Prominent in the plaza where our tour began was the Memorial of Maria Theresa, one of the most important monuments of the Habsburg monarchy in Vienna. It commemorates Empress Maria Theresa, who ruled the Habsburg monarchy from 1740 to 1780.
Directly behind the Memorial, we could see the a portion of the sprawling Hofburg Palace. The Palace is not a standalone palace but rather a series of opulent, interconnected buildings that house (among other things):
- Sisi Museum and Apartments
- Spanish Riding School
- Treasury and Crown Jewels
- Hofburgkapelle (Imperial Court Chapel)
- The Neue Berg (containing museums and historical collections) in the Heldenplatz Square
Our tour did not take us inside any of the buildings.
From the Hofburg Palace we walked down Kohlmarkt (an upscale shopping street) to the Graben square and the Column of Pest.
In 1679, Vienna suffered one of the last great plague epidemics. Fleeing the city, the Habsburg emperor Leopold I vowed to erect a mercy column if the epidemic would end. In the same year, a provisional wooden column made by Johann Frühwirth was inaugurated, showing the Holy Trinity on a Corinthian column together with nine sculpted angels (for the Nine Choirs of Angels). The design for the column was amended multiple times over the course of 15 years but still maintained a homogeneous appearance.
The basic message of which is that the plague and the Ottomans’ Second Siege of Vienna (1683), both of them punishments for sin, were averted or defeated by the piety and intercession of the Emperor Leopold I. (The pillar thus also represents a (victory) monument to that emperor.)
Wikipedia
From the Column of Pest, we continued our walk to St. Stephen’s Cathedral. Since Sunday morning mass had not yet concluded we spent a bit of time exploring nearby. A bit further down the street we found that Vienna does indeed live up to the name “City of Waltzes”.
Not far from St. Stephen’s Cathedral we discovered St. Peter’s Church and were struck by the totally different architecture.
Then we returned to the plaza at St. Stephen’s Cathedral.
Afterward, we asked the guide to suggest somewhere to grab a pastry and beverage. We ended up sitting outside at Sluka where we had coffee, strudel and cream.
We missed the appointed rendezvous time for the bus ride back to the ship but, not to worry, Vienna has an easy and efficient subway system.
That evening, Betty and Linda went to the optional Mozart and Strauss Concert.
Description: The classical music never stops in Vienna, as you will hear firsthand during this special concert. Even the elegant architecture along the famed Ringstrasse seems to sing. On a daily basis, the city celebrates its long musical tradition with concerts in high-style venues. The Vienna Residence Orchestra is one of its most beloved institutions. Despite its young age (it was founded in 1989), it has hosted luminaries in the classical music world; Rudolf Nureyev was once a guest director. During this special performance, lose yourself in the lilting airs of Vienna’s most beloved music. In a historic venue, witness the period come to life as costumed singers and dancers take to the stage. And enjoy the beautiful strains of Strauss waltzes and selections from Mozart’s The Magic Flute. Then, the magic continues during a scenic drive after dark through an illuminated Vienna.
They said it was fantastic!
As today was our anniversary, Bill and I chose to celebrate with dinner at a local restaurant. We had asked the concierge on the ship for suggestions and had reservations at Sixta. Beef Tartare, Asparagus Cream Soup, Beef Goulash, Beef Roulade. Very good!
The next day we went to Schönbrunn Palace (the summer residence of the Habsburg monarchy) located just outside the city center. Although Viking offered an optional tour, we easily navigated the metro system to reach the Palace. There, we purchased an audio tour so we could go at our own pace.
This sprawling palace was the summer residence of the monarchy. In 1569, Holy Roman Emperor Maximilian II erected the original hunting lodge here and called it Schönbrunn, meaning “beautiful spring.” Between 1740 and 1750, Empress Maria Theresa, the only female ruler of the Habsburgs, enlarged the palace to its current 1441 rooms. She also added the grand neoclassical Gloriette colonnade in 1775 so she could have sweeping city views.
Our tour through the Palace started in the West wing. Below are a few of the rooms that we viewed.
As we walked through these rooms, we learned some of the backstory of the young emperor couple.
The first years of marriage were a traumatic experience for Elisabeth. She felt she had been reduced to the role of supplying numerous healthy and preferably male offspring as quickly as possible. The young empress bore three children in rapid succession. At first she had two girls, Sophie (b. 1855) and Gisela (b. 1856). Elisabeth reacted with a phase of exhaustion and depression, which was exacerbated by the sudden death of her first child Sophie, who died in 1857 before her second birthday. In 1858 she gave birth to the long-awaited son and heir, who was named Rudolf. By the age of twenty-one Sisi had borne three children. Ten years later in 1868 she gave birth to her youngest daughter, Marie Valerie.
The Shared Bedroom
Leaving the Imperial Apartments, we travelled through the Great Gallery with the impressive frescos and chandeliers, the Carousel Room, and the Hall of Ceremonies (which served as a buffer between the Great Gallery and the apartments of the East Wing).
Our tour continued into the East Wing.
Finally we moved outside to view the gardens, the Neptune and Obelisk Fountains, and the Gloriette that overlooks the entire estate.
After a leisurely lunch at the Gloriette, we made our way back to the ship. Later this afternoon we sail for Budapest.
