July 11 – 19, 2025
When you think about the Canadian Rockies, chances are you think about Banff, a town inside Banff National Park. We made several trips into Banff and the surrounding area from our campground in Cochrane. Did we get tired of the hour drive each way? Indeed we did, but the drive was pretty.
You might ask why we chose a campground that was so far away from the Banff area. Ideally we would have stayed at Tunnel Mountain Trailer Park just outside of Banff. Unfortunately we didn’t really understand how the Canada Parks Reservation System worked. We knew (and thought we were prepared for) the reservation window for Banff National Park which opened on January 24, 2025 at 8 a.m. MST. Bill was online and logged into the reservation system prior to that time. At exactly 8 a.m. the system became live and he was assigned a random number (something in the 3000’s) that represented his position in the queue. Surprise! Nothing was available for our selected dates by the time his turn came.
We tried a couple of other campgrounds (Mount Kidd and Bow Valley) when their reservation system opened 90 days prior to our arrival date but struck out. Oh well, we learned.
Banff and Banff National Park
Unlike many other mountain towns that began as mining settlements, Banff was established in the 1880s with tourism front of mind. During the 1870s, construction started on the ambitious Canadian Pacific Railway, a coast-to coast railway across Canada. The planned route tracked through the Bow Valley in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. In 1883, it was there at “Siding 29” that three Canadian Pacific Railway workers stumbled on a series of natural hot springs on what is now called Sulphur Mountain.
The Cave and Basin hot springs were quickly identified as a potential hot tourist attraction. Competing claims by ‘discoverers’ of the springs for the right to develop them prompted the Canadian government to create a reserve to protect the springs and surrounding area in 1885. Enlarged in 1887 and named the “Rocky Mountains Park of Canada” (later to be renamed Banff National Park), it was Canada’s first national park and the world’s third. The Banff townsite was established, a hotel was quickly built, and the area was soon being promoted as an international resort and spa.
Since then, Banff and Lake Louise has continued to attract visitors from around the world for the same reasons that drew those first visitors: the easy access to stunning mountains, lakes and valleys. In 1984, the Banff National Park was included in the “Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks” UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognizing its “exceptional natural beauty” and “striking mountain landscape”.
Banff
Lake Louise and Moraine Lake
Our first trip into the Banff area was on Sunday, July 13 to experience Lake Louise and Moraine Lake – two of the must-sees in Banff National Park. Like US National Parks, Banff National Park requires an entry fee. We were aware of this beforehand and had purchased an Annual Discovery Pass that covered over 100 Canadian national parks and historic sites. However, as part of the Canada Strong Pass, the Government of Canada offered free admission to places operated by Parks Canada from June 20 to September 2, 2025 inclusive. For those (like us) who had previously purchased an annual pass that was valid for June, July, or August, the expiration date was automatically extended for 3 months. Kudos to Canada!!!!
You cannot drive to Moraine Lake so the only way to get there is via a tour or with one of the bus services. We had booked the Reservable Super Pass with Roam Transit as soon as our timeframe became available. The Super Pass includes unlimited travel on Roam Transit Services and a round-trip on Parks Canada’s Lake Connector Shuttle, which goes between the Lake Louise Lakeshore and Moraine Lake. This is another instance of needing to be online and ready when the window for the pass opens as tickets go incredibly fast.
Our reservation was for the 8:15 a.m. Roam 8X bus from Banff to Lake Louise Lakeshore. That meant leaving the campground at 6:30 a.m. so that we had time for the drive to Banff (1 hour) and to find parking in Banff. Luckily we had no trouble finding a parking spot at the Train Station which has space for 500 vehicles but is usually full between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. We were surprised to find the Rocky Mountaineer train at the station.
It was a short 10 minute walk from the Train Station to the bus stop at the Banff High School Transit Hub. We were there with plenty of time to spare for our 7:55 check-in time.
The ride to Lake Louise Lakeshore took 1 hour. Upon arrival, thinking that most folks would spend time in Lake Louise first, we immediately took the connector shuttle to Moraine Lake (about a 30 minute ride on a narrow twisty road). Here, we spent some time walking around the lake and enjoying the incredible views. Bill decided to hike the Rockpile while I waited at the bottom. It wasn’t long before the crowds began to roll in.
When we felt we had seen enough of Moraine Lake, we took the connector back down to Lake Louise Lakeshore.
The lakeshore, although beautiful, was incredibly crowded. After taking our photos (the clouds rendered the water green instead of bright blue), we walked partially around the lake. We wanted to get a photo at the Fairview Lookout but the 1.1 kilometer trail proved to be a bit too steep for us (Bill made it farther than I did). Instead, we made our way back to the Fairmont Chateau to see if we could have lunch. Unfortunately only guests were allowed in. Consequently we decided to take the bus back to Banff and seek lunch there.
We found a lunch spot with a roof-top patio at the Rose & Crown. Even with the clouds, it was a beautiful warm day.
Then, the long drive back to the campground.
Banff Gondola and Sky Bistro
Another of the must-dos in the Banff area is to ride one of the gondolas. There are four to choose from. We had made reservations on the Banff Gondola for July 17 at 10:10 a.m. followed by lunch at the Sky Bistro.
Feel the excitement as the Banff Gondola whisks you above the treetops! In just eight minutes, you’ll ascend 700 metres up a steep mountainside to the summit of Sulphur Mountain. From there, enjoy breathtaking mountain views, dine at Sky Bistro or the Northern Lights Alpine Kitchen and explore the Above Banff Interpretive Centre.
Keep the adventure going with an easy hike along a 500m boardwalk to Sanson Peak, where you’ll discover the Sulphur Mountain Cosmic Ray Station National Historic Site and the 1903 weather observatory.
Once again it was an early morning drive into Banff. We again parked at the Train Station and rode the transit bus to the base of the gondola. Unfortunately it was a cloudy day so the views were less than ideal. We did have a nice lunch at the Sky Bistro as we watched the clouds scuttle in and out.
Following the gondola ride down, we spent some time walking around Banff before driving back to the campground.
Eat the Castle and Bow River Falls
As I was researching things to do in Banff, I came across something called “Eat the Castle Tour”.
Step into the main lobby of the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel, where your storytelling guide awaits to whisk you away to your first stop for a journey through this iconic historic gem. Sip and savour the food along with the stunning views in Grapes Cellar. Nestle into the hotel’s signature restaurant, 1888 Chop House, for one of Alberta’s signature foods. Progress into the heart of the hotel for fine French Brasserie fare at the Vermillion Room and finish with a sweet bite and a pick me up before saying goodbye!
Along the way, meet the culinary team and enjoy stories of the history, art, and architecture brought to life by our guide. Soak up the luxury of our small-group private access to one of the world’s most iconic hotels. Leave having experienced the royal treatment at the castle that is the majestic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel – a National Historic Site in a world UNESCO setting.
- Enjoy special access to five onsite venues with our small group tour. Never more than 12 guests.
- Look at the castle in a new light once you discover its fascinating history, art, and architecture.
- Savour sumptuous food and beverage pairings in a setting that’s sublime.
- Relax — Gratuities for the Banff Springs team are all included in the cost. Gratuities for our Alberta Food Tours’ guide are welcome, at your discretion.
- Stay warm — No matter what weather the Rocky Mountains throw at us, we are warm and cozy inside the castle for our tour.
Access the ultimate in a luxurious lifestyle with our exclusive 3-hour food and beverage pairing tour.
Alberta Food Tours
We thought this sounded like fun so we made reservations for July 18. Concerned that our big truck would not fit in the parking garage at the hotel, we decided to park at the Bow River Falls parking lot. We wanted to view Bow River Falls anyway.
From the falls, we walked up the hill to the hotel and eventually (after a few false turns) found our way to the lobby to meet our guide. The hotel is massive.
After a brief wait while our guide organized the group, we began to make our way through the hotel. Along the way, she told us about the history of the hotel and pointed out some of the architectural and furnishing details.
A National Historic Site of Canada, the Fairmont Banff Springs has been a shining example of Canadian hospitality from its inception. William Cornelius Van Horne, the General Manager of the Canadian Pacific Railway, first considered constructing a grand hotel in the Canadian Rockies when several employees of his railroad stumbled across several mineral springs in 1883. Noticing a great opportunity to facilitate travel along the Canadian Pacific Railway, Van Horne immediately set about constructing a brilliant grand dame that would be one of the world’s most luxurious. As such, he commissioned blueprints for an impressive hotel that would be situated at the convergence of the Bow and Spray rivers. Architect Bruce Price lead the design team, who relied upon Châteauesque-style architecture as the source of his inspiration. Construction commenced in 1886 and concluded some two years later. As soon as it debuted as the “Banff Springs Hotel” in 1886, it rapidly became one of the top three mountain resorts in North America.
Fairmont Banff Springs
Our first stop was at the Rundle Bar where we entered via a bookcase “secret door”.
We started with the signature Wild Flower Fairmont Banff Springs – Rundle Bar Gin, Elderberry, Wild Raspberry, Mint, Citrus, Moon Dust – paired with Charred Avocado dip and Beef Tartare.
From the Rundle Bar we made our way to Grapes where we had Prosciutto and Mozzarella paired with a Honig Sauvignon Blanc.
Next up was the Vermillion Room where we watched a cooking demonstration. The finished dish – mussels – was then served to the group. (I had a wonderful pasta dish instead). The wine was a Lake Breeze Sauvignon Blanc.
After our tasting here, we stepped outside to enjoy the view that gives the Vermillion Room its name.
Our next stop was the 1888 Chop House – the hotel’s flagship restaurant. Here we enjoyed a delicious Bison Tenderloin paired with a red wine.
Our final stop was at STOCK Food & Drink for a decadent dessert paired with locally roasted coffee or tea.
Wow! What an experience. Not only did we have great food, we were also introduced to some of the chefs and servers (quite the international ensemble). The only thing we missed was the opportunity to see the hidden passageways since they would not accommodate one of the tour members.
Before leaving the hotel, we decided to top off the evening with a return visit to the Rundle Bar for another Wild Flower. Unfortunately, they were out so we had to settle for a margarita.
Then it was time to waddle back down the hill (in the rain) to the truck and drive back to the campground.
Johnston Canyon and Marble Canyon
On one of our free days, we decided to try to hike Johnston Canyon. I say try because this is one of the most popular hikes. This location was a 30 minute drive beyond Banff making it 1 1/2 hours from the campground. We arrived in the parking lot around 9:30 and fortunately secured one of the last parking spots.
Nestled within the awe inspiring landscapes of Banff National Park, Johnston Canyon offers an exciting hiking adventure for all ability levels. The well-maintained trail winds through lush evergreen forests, with suspended catwalks guiding hikers to the lower and upper falls.
Johnston Canyon
The hike to the lower falls was 0.75 mile one way (about 1 hour) while the hike to the upper falls was 1.5 mile one way (about 2 hours). That does not take into account how busy the trail is. After seeing the lower falls, Bill went on to hike the upper falls while I waited for him near the start. When he returned we had lunch at the Blackswift Bistro there.
Following lunch, we decided to check out Marble Canyon about 20 minutes from Johnston Canyon. Technically, Marble Canyon is in Kootenay National Park but I include it here since we went there directly from Johnston Canyon.
Marble Canyon stands out as one of the most underrated attractions near Banff. Unlike the bustling hotspots like Lake Louise or the Icefields Parkway, this serene destination offers a peaceful experience. Its narrow gorge, carved by the rushing Tokumm Creek, showcases incredible geological formations. The vibrant colors of the canyon walls and water create a picturesque setting perfect for photography.
Marble Canyon
Parking here was no problem and the trail was not crowded. I actually liked it better than Johnston Canyon.
The Banff area was definitely a bucket-list item for us but be warned that if go, you must plan your trip months in advance. We did and still we had some surprises. We decided that the next time we visit Banff, we’ll fly to Calgary, rent a car and stay at a B&B in Banff.
Next up, another bucket-list item, driving the Columbia Icefields Parkway to Jasper.
