Jasper, Alberta

July 20 – 24, 2025

The drive from Banff to Jasper on the Columbia Icefields Parkway was breathtaking. Shortly after departing the Banff area, we encountered a wad of vehicles stopped in the right-hand lane – a sure sign of an animal sighting. Sure enough, somewhat hidden in the bushes was a bear (trust me, it was) grazing on berries. I managed a quick photo as we went by.

Note the yellow mark on the side of the bear. We were told later that the park rangers shoot bears with paintballs to dissuade them from spending time in popular tourist areas.

Continuing our drive we marveled at waterfalls, mountains, and lakes – all competing for the most picturesque spot.

Then the scenery began to change. As you know, large portions of Jasper National Park were destroyed by fire in July 2024.

Fires started north and south of the resort town of Jasper and grew out of control, and on July 22 they forced a mass evacuation of 25,000 residents, workers, and visitors. The fires merged and swept through the town, destroying 358 of its 1,113 structures. The evacuation order lasted until August 17, but fires to the south continued to burn out of control. On September 7 Parks Canada announced that the wildfire was under control with the fire estimated to be 32,722 hectares (80,860 acres) in size, and was declared extinguished on April 1, 2025. One firefighter was killed in efforts to contain the blaze, and insurance companies paid $880 million in claims, making it one of the most expensive natural disasters in Canadian history. Jasper fire topped the list of Canada’s 10 most impactful weather stories of 2024.
wikipedia

As we drove closer to Jasper, the fire damage was everywhere. It’s hard to see in the photos below but the burnt trees extend to the top of the hills. The devastation was heart-breaking but the wildlife, wildflowers, and bits of green indicate resilience.

With so much devastation you might ask why we wanted to go there. Even with the fire damage, we found the area beautiful. Large areas were untouched and the town is recovering – most restaurants and shops were open and in need of tourists.

Whistler’s Campground

Our failed attempt to reserve a campsite at Tunnel Mountain Trailer Park in Banff National Park had been a learning experience on how to navigate the Parks Canada Reservation System. We were much better prepared when Jasper National Park campground reservations opened a couple of days after those in Banff National Park. Consequently, we were able to secure one campsite for 3 nights and another campsite for the following 2 nights in Whistler’s Campground. Both campsites were full hookup 50 amp sites.

Since the campground was located inside Jasper National Park, a park pass would normally be required. However, the pass requirement was waived as part of the Canada Strong Pass. Additionally, 25% of our campsite fee was refunded – also part of Canada Strong. More kudos to Canada!!

Whistler’s was not spared by the fire. Most of the trees and some structures had burned. Crews had worked diligently to remove downed trees and reopen the campground as soon as they could. Some campsites were reserved for work crews and displaced Jasper residents.

Before the fire – image from TripAdvisor

With all the downed and burned trees, the campground had plenty of free firewood for campfires (in an appropriate fire pit of course).

We loved it here even though we had to change sites midway through our stay.

Jasper

It was a short drive from the campground to the town of Jasper. One of the first things we noticed when we entered the town were the temporary housing for folks displaced by the fire. The housing units were not the flimsy trailers that FEMA provides in the states but rather solid, comfortable-looking units. It was estimated that some folks would need such housing for up to 3 years.

We spent some time walking around and investigating some of the shops. Some of the notable sights in downtown Jasper were the oldest building, Whistler’s Inn, Athabasca Hotel and the Two Brothers Totem.

Later we went to Cassio’s Italian Restaurant where we enjoyed a great dinner.

Columbia Icefield

We had reservations for the Columbia Icefield Adventure Tour the day after we arrived, so we retraced part of our route on the Icefields Parkway to the Discovery Center. We had time to look around the Discovery Center and step outside for a look at the vehicle that was once used to drive on the ice and a view of the Athabasca Glacier.

At our reserved time, we boarded a shuttle bus to the Icefield transfer bay. We exited the shuttle bus and immediately boarded a massive Ice Explorer, a vehicle purpose-built for glacier travel.

After a rough uphill ride on a dirt “road”, we arrived on the glacier. Once there, we were given the opportunity to get out and actually walk on the Athabasca Glacier. We expected the ice to be very slippery but it was more like walking on top of a snow cone. Below the slushy top layer was slippery blue ice as Bill uncovered. Needless to say it was cold on the glacier.

The Athabasca Glacier is not the only glacier here. We were told that an Icefield is so named because it is the meeting point of two or more glaciers. The Columbia Icefield actually boasts the meeting of 6 glaciers:

Athabasca Glacier
Castleguard Glacier
Columbia Glacier
Dome Glacier
Stutfield Glacier
Saskatchewan Glacier

After walking and playing on the glacier we again boarded our Explorer vehicle and returned to the Transfer bay. From there, the shuttle bus took us to the glass-floored Columbia Icefield Skywalk, suspended 918 feet above the rugged and Sunwapta Valley. How do you feel about heights, standing on glass and looking straight down?

It really wasn’t as scary as it sounds. The shuttle bus took us back to the Discovery Center where we decided to have lunch. We wanted to eat in the Altitude Restaurant but their seating was reserved for guests staying at the Glacier View Lodge located on the third floor of the facility. Instead we grabbed a burger in the Chalet Restaurant. Then it was back to the campground.

Maligne Lake

The next day we made arrangements to take the Maligne Lake Boat Cruise.

Venture beyond the shoreline aboard an interpretive Maligne Lake Cruise to the world-famous Spirit Island. Along the way, you’ll learn about the geology, wildlife and history of this spectacular alpine destination from our experienced guides while riding comfortably in our glass-enclosed, heated boats.

Maligne Lake has inspired wonder and legend for thousands of years, with the iconic Spirit Island holding deep significance for the Indigenous Stoney Nation. As walking on the island is prohibited, the small enclave of evergreens remains pristine and prime for photography.
Maligne Lake Cruise

We chose the 1.5 hour classic cruise. The boat was full and included a Gate 1 tour group with two elderly ladies who just couldn’t follow instructions. (I was glad I was not on their multi-day tour.) The scenery on the cruise was gorgeous and the guide was informative.

Our guide relaxing while we explore on shore

The drive back from Maligne Lake after the cruise to the campground was scenic as well. It’s known as a good spot to see wildlife and it did not disappoint – a young eagle, bighorn sheep, and a moose.

Wildlife and Waterfall Photography Tour

For our last adventure in Jasper National Park, we had arranged a Golden Hour Photography and Wildlife Tour with Jasper Photo Tours. Our guide picked us up at the campground office at 6 p.m. and we took off on a 4 hour tour. We found elk just outside the campground but our hunt for bear and other wildlife was unsuccessful – not for lack of trying. He drove to several of the most likely spots but no luck. Then, as the sun was lowering, he took us to several waterfalls – Athabasca Falls, Sunwapta Falls, and Chutes and Goats (where we looked for but didn’t see mountain goats).