July 30 – August 5, 2025
Following Vancouver, our next destination was Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. You read that right – Vancouver Island! How are we going to get our rig there? Enter BC Ferries.
BC Ferries
Founded in 1960, BC Ferries is the largest passenger ferry line in North America, and second-largest in the world. Transporting over 20 million passengers a year, BC Ferries provides all major passenger and vehicle services for the coastal and island communities of British Columbia. With 35 vessels in their fleet, they provide an essential link from mainland British Columbia to the various islands and areas of the mainland without road access.
Canadian Ferry Company
We had reservations to take our rig via BC Ferries from Horseshoe Bay (Vancouver) to Departure Bay (Nanaimo). Getting to Horseshoe Bay from our campground in Burnaby was a 45 minute drive along the Trans Canada BC-1 highway through Vancouver and across the Iron Workers Memorial Bridge. We had been advised to be in line at the Ferry Terminal within our specified window (no earlier, no later) or risk giving up your reservation. Needless to say, the drive to the terminal was stressful but we made it without incident. Upon arrival, they checked us in, verified our overall length, gave us a band to put around our propane tanks to indicate they were off, and directed us to our place in line. When it was time to drive aboard, they waved us into position between two other RVs. At that point Bill and I had to leave the vehicle deck as, due to safety concerns, no passengers are allowed on the vehicle decks. We left Dawn there in the unlocked truck (because the ferry motion can set off the vehicle alarm). There are areas onboard where pets are allowed but Dawn feels safe in the truck.
The crossing from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay took 1 1/2 hours. We spent some of that time exploring the ship and sitting in one of the lounge areas prior to having lunch in the cafeteria.
Not long afterward, we arrived at Departure Bay.
Getting off was easy as the ferry is designed to board from the aft and exit from the front (or vice versa). A short drive through Nanaimo and we were at our campground.
Living Forest and Oceanside Campground and RV Park
Fifty three natural acres of ocean, forest and river make up this year round Vancouver Island Campground and RV Park. This beautiful park features over 300 gorgeous campsites and a seasonal cafe with a deck overlooking the water.
We had a great pull-thru site – big, easy to get into, tree covered, and near the entrance where we could watch the daily arrival and departure of RVs. We loved it and voted it our favorite campground this far!!
We also got to watch folks as they walked by on their way to the campground office, some of whom pointed at our RV and said “it’s as big as a house”. Well, yes, it is our “house”. One day, a young couple from the Netherlands asked if they could see inside so we gave them the tour. Although there were large rigs in the campground, most were small travel trailers, Class-Cs, or truck bed campers so perhaps our rig was a bit of a novelty.
Nanaimo
So, where is Nanaimo?
Nanaimo is a city located on the east coast of Vancouver Island, in British Columbia, Canada. It’s the second-largest city on the island and serves as a central commercial and transport hub for the region, known for its harbour, waterfront activities, and proximity to both natural attractions and other communities on the island.
The uneven shoreline, sheltered islands and sandy beaches of the east coast of Vancouver Island have been, for centuries, a place of beauty and plenty. Aboriginal people were the first to make this sheltered stretch of coastline their home. Eventually settling in what are today, Departure Bay and Nanaimo, the Snuneymuxw, a Coast Salish people, found food, fresh water, and winter shelter among the islands and inlets. It was this wealth of natural resources that encouraged the migration of Europeans to this coast many years later. Animals harvested for furs, forests for timber and fish for food were just some of the treasures found here, but it was coal, the black fuel of the 19th century, that would forever mark the heritage of Nanaimo. Today, the houses, commercial buildings, the city plan and the very shape of the land records the progress of a community that grew from a company coal town to a thriving port city.
Nanaimo
For our first outing, we drove into town to explore the colorful Old City Quarter.
The Old City Quarter is nestled in the heart of Nanaimo, just steps from the downtown core. Consisting of a collection of owner operated businesses, from specialty food stores to metaphysical treasures to wealth managers and chiropractors, the Old City Quarter oozes vibrancy and community.
Originally the economic centre of the city, the area is a charming mix of revitalized heritage buildings and thoughtful new development. It has become the number one destination for shopping in Nanaimo and a hub for doers and relaxers alike.
Old City Quarter
I also had to find some of the famous Nanaimo Bars which were invented here.
So what’s a Nanaimo Bar? A Nanaimo Bar consists of three layers: a crumb base with nuts (walnuts, almonds, or pecans) and coconut; custard icing in the middle; and a layer of chocolate ganache on top. Many varieties exist, consisting of various types of crumb, various flavors of icing (such as peanut butter or coconut, mocha), and various types of chocolate. I tried two different types – peanut butter and maple. Bill had a salted caramel. Unfortunately, the coconut in the crust ruined the experience for me.
Nanaimo to Deep Bay
The next day we drove northeast for a bit with the intention of going to Cathedral Grove (an old-growth forest) but the traffic was heavy as this was the beginning of the long BC Day weekend. Additionally there was a fire on the north side of Cameron Lake near the grove necessitating many fire trucks and supporting vehicles on the road. We went as far as Coombs where we stopped at The Old Country Market – Goats on the Roof. The Market was interesting (candy, baked goods, souvenirs, etc) but the goats were hiding.
Then we decided to head north to the coast. We drove through Qualicum Beach, Qualicum Bay, and stopped for lunch near Deep Bay at Ship and Shore Restaurant. We had a nice relaxing meal while enjoying the view before heading back to the campground.
Port McNeill
The following day Bill left and drove north about 5 hours to Port McNeill while Dawn and I stayed in Nanaimo. The purpose of Bill’s trip was to go on the full day Grizzly Bears of the Wild Tour.
Embark on an extraordinary journey into the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, guided by our Indigenous Knowledge Keepers. Each day and season offers something new, and our route adapts to ensure you experience the best possible grizzly bear viewing. Travel in comfort through breathtaking landscapes and areas of cultural significance, such as Knight Inlet, Bond Sound, and Thompson Sound.
Your adventure begins with a two-hour boat journey from Port McNeill or the First Nations village of Alert Bay into the stunning territory of the Kwakwaka‘wakw peoples.
As you explore, listen to your guide’s Indigenous insights about the surrounding landscapes and learn about the rich history of the Kwakwaka‘wakw people, from ancient traditions to modern-day life.
Enjoy a locally sourced lunch before we journey back through the Broughton Archipelago and Blackfish Sound, where sightings of Pacific wildlife, including migrating humpback whales, often add a magical ending to the day.
Sea Wolf Adventures
Since the meeting time for the tour was 6:30 in the morning, Bill drove up the day before and stayed at the Humpback Inn in Port McNeill for 2 nights.
Early on the morning of the tour, Bill and the other members of the group gathered at the Sea Wolf Adventures office and were escorted to the boat for their 8 – 9 hour trip. Bill said the seats, which were on springs, were actually quite comfortable. The scenery was impressive and they were able to spot eagles and orcas but unfortunately no bears. According to the guide this was only the second time all season that they did not spot bears – major bummer. The guide thought that a couple of things conspired against them. First, when the boat arrived at the prime spot for seeing bears it was high tide. This was where the bears come to hunt clams, mussels, crabs and other invertabrates by turning over rocks along the shore at low tide. Second a momma bear who they had seen regularly with two cubs had recently been spotted with only one. The speculation was that something had happened to the other cub and momma and friends were wary.
The following map shows the route (indicated by the black line) that the boat took during the expedition.
When Bill returned to the campground the day after the tour, he was tired and disappointed about not seeing any bears. Still, he got some great photos.
Did we enjoy Nanaimo?
Absolutely but our time in Nanaimo went by way too quickly. There was so much more that we didn’t get to see:
- Cathedral Grove about an hour north and west of Nanaimo
- the east coast of Vancouver Island especially Pacific Rim National Park Preserve
- the drive to the north coast (although Bill did a large portion of this)
- the Cowichan Valley – for its unique Mediterranean climate, wineries, and the Cowichan River and Lake.
Hopefully we’ll make it back someday. Fortunately we have one more destination in Canada on Vancouver Island. Stay tuned for Victoria.
