August 6 – 12, 2025
On the morning of August 6, we pulled our rig out of our wonderful tree-lined site in Nanaimo, drove through the campground, navigated to Trans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 S, and headed to Victoria. Our route paralleled the Burleith Arm of the Salish Sea through Ladysmith and then to the end of the Saanich Inlet – a gorgeous area with green hills and valleys. Just north of Goldstream our route turned east toward Victoria. We left the Trans-Canada Hwy/BC-1 in West Victoria where we navigated some challenging narrow streets on our way to our campground. (Our GPS failed to tell us that one street on our route was closed due to construction.)
Salish Seaside RV Resort and Marina
We had a reservation at Salish Seaside RV Resort and Marina. This was a wonderful harbour-side, modern campground with full hook-ups and concrete pads. From the resort we could see the cruise ships docked in Victoria harbour, the harbour ferry coming and going, and seaplanes taking off and landing. Our site was situated right next to the clubhouse.
The marina also had either for-rent or privately owned houseboats (float homes).
Victoria Harbour Ferry
There was a Victoria Harbour Ferry stop (West Bay Marina) just steps from the campground. Originally we thought this would be our best option for traveling around the city. Upon closer study, there was no timetable for or information about routes. Instead, when you wanted a ride, you had to scan the QR code at your stop and arrange your trip. The cost was $15 Canadian for each adult passenger for a one-way fare. Just for fun, Bill checked to see how much it would be to Uber into downtown Victoria. The answer – $20 Canadian for the two of us.
II Covo Trattoria
We were craving some good Italian for dinner our first night and made reservations at II Covo Trattoria. Since we arrived a bit early, we decided to check out nearby Fisherman’s Wharf.
Just around the corner from Victoria’s Inner Harbour, Fisherman’s Wharf is a hidden treasure waiting to be discovered. This unique marine destination offers food kiosks, unique shops and eco-tour adventures amongst fishing vessels, pleasure boats with live-aboard residents, float homes and commercial businesses.
The eastern end of Fisherman’s Wharf is populated largely by float homes. The Greater Victoria Harbour Authority has set aside 33 berths designated for floating residences. Respect for personal property and the privacy of the float home customers is critical to the enjoyment of the space.
Fisherman’s Wharf is a unique marine destination with a distinct flavour. Working fishing vessels, pleasure boats with live-aboard residents, float homes and commercial businesses are all moored at the docks. The wharf is a great destination for those seeking fresh fish or seafood.
Fisherman’s Wharf
Then it was on to the restaurant where we still had time for a cocktail before dinner.
We truly enjoyed the restaurant, food, and service.
Chinatown, Old Town and Inner Harbour Food Tour
The next day we took the Chinatown, Old Town and Inner Harbour Guided Food and History Tour with A Taste of Victoria Food Tours.
Our original award-winning 2-hour walking tour includes stops at The Gate of Harmonious Interest, Fan Tan Alley, Market Square, Bastion Square, Trounce Alley, Government St., and the Inner Harbour Causeway. Along the route, there are six local food tastings, as we discuss the history and quirks of beautiful Victoria, B.C. Tastings vary, but they are all passionate local vendors!
A Taste of Victoria
We met our guide (the owner and only employee of the tour company) at Roast@Phillips Brewing where we sampled one of their famous meatballs. Those who wanted were welcome to try a beer.
From there we walked through Chinatown – the oldest in North America due to being built with brick. (He said that Hallmark films a lot of movies here, especially Christmas movies, as they can make brick buildings appear like any city in the world. He and his wife sometimes volunteer to be extras. Imagine standing around in winter garb when it’s really 80 degrees in the summer – when most movies are filmed here).
We walked through the narrowest alley, past interesting looking shops, to the Gate of Harmonious Interest, and down Fan Tan Alley.
There we stopped at Friends and Family Bake for an Ube ensaymada (made with purple yams) – hot, buttered, and iced (yummy).
Next we stopped at Just Matcha for a matcha lemonade. Our guide demonstrated the correct way to prepare matcha using the highest quality matcha, the correct bowl, the correct water temperature, and the correct whisk. (Our guide swore by Matcha as the best way to alleviate joint problems).
Then we went to Market Square – part of the rehabilitated complex of late 19th-century buildings within Victoria’s Old Town located on lower Johnson Street. We stopped outside a 5×5 foot shop in the upper corner of the square. Here a world renowned chef (Bana) contentedly operates Ayo Eat, an Indonesian take-out. Our guide said that the peanut sauce here was absolutely the best he had ever had. Each of us was given a satay wrap (Gado-Gado wrap?) with tofu, vegetables, hard-boiled egg and peanut sauce. I must admit, it was very tasty.
Next up was a stop at Chimac Korean Fried Chicken for Korean fried chicken – plain and garlic soy. Apparently fried chicken is all the rage in Korea but I was not hugely impressed.
The final stop on our tour was at Rogers Chocolates for a taste of Queen Elizabeth’s favorite chocolate – dark chocolate covered vanilla cream. We each were handed an individually wrapped vanilla cream chocolate that was probably 1 1/2 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch tall. Wow, sugar high, but I loved it!
The tour ended at the wharf across from the Empress Hotel and Parliament Buildings. Our guide insisted on taking a photo for us prior to taking his leave.
The tour was a great introduction to the area. The local guides always provide important history and context for visitors. Plus they know the best sites to see and foods to experience.
Butchart Gardens
Of course you can’t go to Victoria without taking the time to drive outside the city to the world-famous Butchart Gardens.
In the mid 1800 George MacLauchlan Butchart moved his family from the Forfar District of Scotland, to Owen Sound, Ontario. In 1856 Robert Pim Butchart was born, one of 11 children. Robert grew up learning the hardware business at his father’s store. He married Jennie Foster Kennedy, a very adventurous lady who enjoyed ballooning and flying. She later became a qualified chemist.
On their honeymoon in England, Mr. Butchart learned the process of the manufacture of Portland cement. Together with his brother David, Mr. Butchart pioneered advancements in cement as they introduced the first sacks of cements rather then the standard barrels that were common.
In 1902 Mr. Butchart came to Vancouver Island, and located some twelve miles north of Victoria, where he believed the required limestone could be found. Two years later, the Tod Inlet cement plant was started and Jennie joined her husband on Vancouver Island. The West Coast was exploding with development, and cement was in constant demand from San Francisco to Seattle. The first sacks of cement sailed out of Vancouver Island aboard the “Alexander” in 1905.
Jennie Butchart busied herself around the estate by planting flowers and shrubbery in an area between the house and Butchart cove, the area that is now the Japanese Garden. As time passed, Jennie’s efforts increased and her husband often supplied workmen from the factory to assist in the ever growing project of gardening. By 1908 the limestone ran out, leaving a gigantic pit near the house. In an attempt to hide this hideous excavation, Jennie planted Lombary and white poplars along with Persian plums between the pit and the house.
The concept of a sunken garden formed, and Jennie had massive amounts of topsoil imported by horse cart to form the garden bed. The rubble on the floor of the pit was pushed into tall mounds or rock on which terraced flowers were planted. The largest tower in the lower garden supports an observation platform, from which you can see most of the original pit. Mrs. Butchart solved the problem of the grim gray quarry walls by dangling over the side in a boson’s chair and carefully tucking ivy into any discernible pocket or crevice in the rock. In 1921, the project was completed. It had become a garden of immense interest to the surrounding community. Tales of Mr. and Mrs. Butchart’s fabulous gardens spread as fast as the gardens themselves. From the beginning, friends, acquaintances, and even complete strangers were welcomed, as they came to marvel at the horticultural masterpiece.
The Butcharts named their home “Benvenuto”, which is Italian for welcome. They would serve tea to all that came, invited or uninvited. This would continue until the sheer number of people arriving made it impossible. In 1915 alone, it was reported that tea was served to 18,000 people. Mrs. Butchart would, on occasion, serve tea herself in such a manner that she was sometimes not recognized, and on one occasion received a tip from a visitor. By 1930, thousands of people were being attracted to Jennie’s gardens. Jennie emerged into an indefatigable and generous hostess, not only to her own friends, but to hundreds of visitors to Victoria. In appreciation of her generosity, in 1930, she was named Victoria’s best citizen.
World War II stripped the area of available manpower and the garden began to decline. Mr. Butchart’s failing health caused them to move to Victoria. Their two daughters, Jennie and Mary continued on as best as possible until Jennie’s son R. Ian Ross returned from the war. Before they died — Robert in 1943 and Jennie in 1950 — they gave the gardens to their grandson, Robert Ian Ross. Robin-Lee Clarke is the great grand-daughter of Jennie and Robert Butchart.
Butchart Gardens
This was our destination for Saturday afternoon. The drive took approximately 30 minutes, half to that time on rather narrow roads. We arrive around 4:30 and spent around 2 hours walking the majority of the 13 acre gardens which include
- the Sunken Garden
- the Ross Fountain
- the Rose Carousel
- the Dragon Fountain
- the Japanese Garden
- a glimpse of the Butchart Cove
- the Star Pond
- the Italian Garden
At the conclusion of our walk, we went to the dining room where we had a 7 p.m. dinner reservation. We were seated on the veranda overlooking the Italian Garden where we enjoyed a wonderful, relaxing dinner.
On Saturday evenings during July and August, there is a fireworks display choreographed to music and designed by Jennie Butchart’s great-grandson Christopher Ross. Our intention was to stay for the fireworks, which was scheduled to start at 9:15 that evening. Two things changed our minds. First, when we walked past the fireworks viewing area around 6 p.m., folks were already crowding into the area. Second, at dinner our server mentioned how much time it takes to get out of the parking lot after the show. So, we decided to bale. After seeing all the tour buses and cars in the parking lot on our walk back to the truck, we decided we had made the right decision. The traffic back into Victoria was going to be horrendous.
Sunset Whale Watching Cruise
The following evening we went on a Sunset Whale Watching Cruise with Eagle Wing Tours. With a description like the following, how could we go wrong?
Experience the “golden hour” with Victoria’s #1 tour on TripAdvisor since 2007 with a 98% sighting success rate! Glide across the Salish Sea aboard our high-performance luxury Semi-covered and Open boats, guided by expert naturalists. With fewer crowds, a 3+ hour adventure, and a Whale Guarantee, witness whales in the sunset’s glow, soaring eagles, and twilight-painted waters—all from a smooth, comfortable vessel equipped with all-weather gear. Don’t just watch the sunset—experience it on the water!
Eagle Wing Tours
Our meeting point for the tour was the Eagle Wing kiosk in Fisherman’s Village. There, they gave us a safety talk and then loaded the group aboard the semi-covered “Wild 4 Whales” custom-built boat. They had warned us to dress warmly, which we did, but it was still very cold on the water. Fortunately, each of their vessels is equipped with complimentary jackets, blankets, sunglasses, toques, gloves, and sunscreen.
During our 3 hour cruise, we were fortunate to see two different types of whales (orcas and humpbacks). Our guide said we were lucky since that had not happened for several weeks. We also saw lots of harbor seals around Race Rocks Lighthouse.
High Tea
You also can’t go to Victoria without having High Tea. There are several locations across the city where you can enjoy high tea but the most well-known is the Empress Hotel. We had a 3 p.m. reservation there for our last day in Victoria.
We were given a table by the window which was nice but the overall environment was disappointing. The Lobby Lounge where tea is served was crowded and loud with conversation and clanking dishes as the waitstaff cleared tables. My tea selection (Masala Chai Organic) was good but Bill was disappointed with his (Liza Hill Darjeeling). He said it was very weak. (The menu said it was King Charles’ favorite). The culinary offerings were good although nothing really stood out as exceptional.
- Bottom level
- Raisin Scones
- Lavender Biscuits
- Middle level
- Baby Shrimp Basket
- Coronation Chicken Sandwich,
- Cucumber and Cream Cheese Sandwich,
- Truffled Egg Eclair
- Salmon Mousse Barquette
- Top level (very sweet)
- Hazelnut Praline Tart
- Raspberry Creme
- Dark Chocolate Bar
- Cherry Hibiscus Macaron
I enjoyed it probably more than Bill as he is not a tea person. Still it was one of those bucket-list items. Afterward we walked around the hotel and then across the street to the harbour for a last look at the Parliament Buildings and harbour ferry.
That evening was our last night in Canada as the next day we crossed back into the USA. I leave you with a last look at Parliament, and Victoria Harbour at night.
