Today we continue our exploration of Natchez with a visit to the Melrose Plantation. Karla had told us that at one time Natchez was second only to New York City in the number of millionaires. As a result there are many wonderful plantations, mansions, and antebellum homes available for view.
Originally built as the dream home of John and Mary Louise McMurran, the Melrose Plantation is now owned and operated by the National Park Service. The McMurran’s moved into the house in 1848 and lived there until they were forced to sell the house in 1865 as a result of the economic changes caused by the Civil War. George Malin Davis, an attorney and friend of the McMurran’s bought the house and it remained in their family for two more generations before being acquired by John and Betty Calion in 1976 and then the National Park Service in 1990.
RJ, our guide for the tour, is a wonderful young man whose family actually worked in the house and on the grounds. His stories really bring the plantation to life. For example, he tells about one of his relatives pulling the rope to swing the “punkah” (a large fan over the dining table). This duty required a special touch as the fan had to keep the flies away and not blow out the candles.
The decor and furnishings in the house are exquisite as shown in the photos below. Notice the divided love seat in the Red Parlor for proper courting.
For dinner this evening we decide to try the historic King’s Tavern. It is thought that Prosper King constructed the building of lumber from the flatboats in 1789 as a tavern and inn. Folks traveling along the Trace would stop to rest, get something to eat, or spend the night. Locals would stop by for an ale and to get their mail – dropped by passing postal carriers. Outlaws would also gather at the tavern.
King’s Tavern is said to be haunted by the ghost of Prosper King’s mistress Madeline. Legend has it that his wife discovered the infidelity and hired men to kill Madeline. In the 1900’s while doing some renovations on the building, the skeletons of two men and one woman were found behind the fireplace. The woman was assumed to be Madeline. From time to time employees have reported seeing a woman standing by the fireplace. The woman suddenly vanishes.
Our dinner was not interrupted by a ghostly appearance but the trio of cheeses, braised brisket flatbread, and chicken pot pie certainly vanished rather quickly. The disappearance was aided by a couple of “Sister Margarets” from the tavern’s craft cocktail menu.
The new day dawns cloudy and a bit cooler so we decide to revisit the Natchez City Cemetery. Karla had driven us through the cemetery on our first day but we want to walk around and take some photos. Old cemeteries are full of interesting stories. Some of the headstones here date from the 1700’s.
Many Confederate soldiers are buried here. This is a view of some of the unknowns.
The wrought iron work is amazing as you can see in the photos below.
A little girl named Florence Irene Ford is buried in this cemetery. She died of yellow fever at the age of 10. Her mother could not stand the thought of her daughter alone in the cold dirt so she had a special coffin with a glass window built. The grave was constructed with a set of steps that led to a glass wall where Mts. Ford could sit and watch her daughter through the window in the coffin. Since the little girl was afraid of thunderstorms, heavy iron doors were installed to cover the steps and her mother would go down the steps to sit with her daughter until the storm passed. After Mrs. Ford died, the glass wall was sealed with concrete but the steps remain.
Among the interesting statues in the cemetery is the Turning Angel. It is said that the angel appears to turn and greet you as you approach the cemetery. This statue was erected by the Natchez Drug Company to watch over the employees who were killed when the building exploded due to a gas leak on March 14, 1908.
After walking through much of the cemetery we decide to try another of Karla’s restaurant suggestions – Fat Mama’s Tamales. They claim to have the absolute best tamales and chili so we’re off to investigate. We order some chips and salsa, 2 gringo pies, and 2 large “Knock-You-Naked” Margaritas. Wow – really good stuff. We also pick up a couple of their t-shirts to go with our souvenir drink cups. Next up – a good nap so it’s back to the camper.
The next day we spend around the campground cleaning, doing laundry, and relaxing. In the evening we decide to go down to Natchez Under-the-Hill for dinner and sunset. At one point this area was known as the most notorious landing along the entire Mississippi River. The 3/4 mile long stretch was home to shacks and shanties used as warehouses for goods transported on the river and entertainment areas for gambling, drinking, and “other activities”. As the landing grew, mule carts were introduced to transport passengers and goods up and down the road from Under-the-Hill to the top of the bluffs. A railway eventually replaced the mule carts and a ferry was added that ran to and from Vidalia on the other side of the river. Eventually the river traffic slowed and in the 1930’s the Army Corp of Engineers eliminated a loop on the river. This resulted in a much faster current and the river soon consumed much of the outcroppings of the area. Today there is just the one street – Silver Street.
We drive down Silver Street and find a place to park at The Camp Restaurant where we have dinner. After dinner we walk a bit further down the street for what we hope is a pretty sunset. What do you think?
