Adventures in Iowa

September 28 – 29, 2020

After the Dells, we started our southward swing in earnest – first stop Mount Pleasant, Iowa. We chose this location as a convenient midpoint between the Dells and the following destination.

We got an early start so that we could stop at a Goodyear Tire Store. One of our RV tires had developed a slow leak and Bill wanted to have it checked out. Luckily the technician discovered a damaged valve stem and was able to quickly replace it.

Back on the road, around Cedar Rapids, Iowa Bill discovered the trailer brakes were not working. We pulled into a nearby rest area where Bill determined that we had a broken brake line. Uncomfortable relying solely on the truck brakes, we called an RV repair shop (Sun & Fun RV) about 20 minutes further down the road in Tiffin, Iowa. They told us to come in and they would take a look. Unfortunately, they were unable to fix the problem but they did put us in contact with Truck Country back in Cedar Rapids. So back we went. After some discussion, they came up with a repair plan and had us back the rig into the service bay. As we backed, Bill and I were so focused on the sides of the bay and the worker directing us in that we failed to watch the backup camera. Suddenly everyone was yelling STOP! Can you believe that we backed into a truck and damaged the end cap – yikes! Another repair for sometime in the future!

Anyway, after about 3 hours, with working trailer brakes, we were back on the road headed south for Crossroads RV Park. We had already called ahead to inform them that we would be late arrivals. They had park information and directions to our site waiting outside the office. We quickly setup in the dark, had a very late dinner, and went to bed.

Amana Colonies

The next morning, we discussed whether or not to go to the Amana Colonies which were over an hour away. Doing so meant we had to retrace the last part of our trip the day before. We finally decided to give it a go.

The history of Amana Colonies, a National Historic Landmark and one of America’s longest-lived communal societies, begins in 1714 in the villages of Germany and continues today on the Iowa prairie.

In the turbulent 18th century, Germany in the midst of a religious movement called Pietism, two men, Eberhard Ludwig Gruber, and Johann Friedrich Rock, advocated faith renewal through reflection, prayer and Bible study. Their belief, one shared by many other Pietists, was that God, through the Holy Spirit, may inspire individuals to speak. This gift of inspiration was the basis for a religious group that began meeting in 1714 and became known as the Community of True Inspiration. Though the Inspirationists sought to avoid conflict, they were persecuted for their beliefs. Eventually, the Inspirationists found refuge in central Germany settling in several estates, including the 13th-century Ronneburg castle.

Persecution and an economic depression in Germany forced the community to begin searching for a new home. Led by Christian Metz, they hoped to find religious freedom in America and left Germany in 1843-44. Community members pooled their resources and purchased 5,000 acres near Buffalo, New York. By working cooperatively and sharing their property, the community, now numbering some 1,200 people, was able to carve a relatively comfortable living. They called their community the “Ebenezer Society” and adopted a constitution that formalized their communal way of life.

When more farmland was needed for the growing community, the Inspirationists looked to Iowa where attractively priced land was available. Land in the Iowa River valley was particularly promising. Here was fertile soil, stone, wood, and water enough to build the community of their dreams.

In 1855 they arrived in Iowa. After an inspired testimony directed the people to call their village, “Bleibtreu” or “remain faithful” the leaders chose the name Amana from the Song of Solomon 4:8. Amana means to “remain true.” Six villages were established, a mile or two apart, across a river valley tract of some 26,000 acres – Amana, East Amana, West Amana, South Amana, High Amana, and Middle Amana. The village of Homestead was added in 1861, giving the Colony access to the railroad.

In the seven villages, residents received a home, medical care, meals, all household necessities, and schooling for their children. Property and resources were shared. Men and women were assigned jobs by their village council of brethren. No one received a wage. No one needed one.

Farming and the production of wool and calico supported the community, but village enterprises, everything from clock making to brewing, were vital; and well-crafted products became a hallmark of the Amanas. Craftsmen took special pride in their work as a testament of both their faith and their community spirit.

In 1932, amidst America’s Great Depression, Amana set aside its communal way of life. A ruinous farm market and changes in the rural economy contributed, but what finally propelled the change was a strong desire on the part of residents to maintain their community. By 1932, the communal way of life was seen as a barrier to achieving individual goals, so rather than leave or watch their children leave, they changed. They established the Amana Society, Inc. a profit-sharing corporation to manage the farmland, the mills, and the larger enterprises. Private enterprise was encouraged. The Amana Church was maintained.

Today the seven villages of the Amana Colonies represent an American dream come true; a thriving community founded by religious faith and community spirit. Declared a National Historic Landmark in 1965, the Amana Colonies attract hundreds of thousands of visitors annually all of whom come to see and enjoy a place where the past is cherished and where hospitality is a way of life.

Amana Colonies

Once there, we were glad that we made the trip. Although we only made it to Amana, the largest of the seven villages, we found the area charming. There were lots of unique shops and restaurants set in historic brick, stone, and clapboard buildings. We stopped first at the Visitor Center for a map and suggestions of what to see. Following the map, we made sure to stop at:

  • Amana Furniture and Clock Shop – beautiful wood furniture and gorgeous clocks
  • Village Winery – nice gift shop plus wine tasting
  • Amana Meat Shop and Smokehouse – nice meat and cheese selection
  • Amana General Store and International Christmas Market – wide assortment of foods, handcrafts, gifts, and Christmas items

To learn more about the history of the area, we also spent some time in the Amana Heritage Museum.

The Amana Heritage Museum is comprised of three 19th Century buildings, set in spacious grounds. The Noé House, built in 1864, was originally a communal kitchen and later a doctor’s residence. Recently updated exhibits in the Noé House trace the history and development of Amana, include stories about Amana residents, and display the varied crafts and industries of the Inspirationists. Temporary exhibits and special programs focus on particular aspects of Amana’s culture. The Schoolhouse was built in 1870. An audio visual presentation on Amana’s history is shown regularly in the Schoolhouse auditorium. The original washhouse/woodshed, an integral part of communal Amana, houses wine-making and gardening displays.

Amana Colonies

We of course had to try some German food so our last stop was at the Ronneburg Restaurant.

The name “Ronneburg” comes from the medieval fortress in Hesse, Germany (pictured above) bearing the same name, which sheltered the Amana ancestors during their religious persecution over 200 years ago.   The building which is currently the Ronneburg Restaurant was a communal kitchen for the colony for many years until it first opened as a restaurant in 1950.  The restaurant had been owned and operated by the Oehler family for a majority of its time as a restaurant.  It is under current ownership by David and Yana Cutler.

Ronneburg Restaurant

Since it was mid-afternoon, we were seated right away in one of the five dining rooms where every other table was covered with some form of display. We decided to started with pretzel bites and beer cheese dip. That had to be the best pretzel I had ever tasted! Then I had the Bavarian Chicken while Bill tried the Rouladen and spatzle. Our meals came with coleslaw, bread, fried potatoes, and hot vegetable (which today was green beans – sorry Bill). We certainly were full on the walk back to the truck and the ride home.

Farewell Iowa

The next morning we set off for the Show Me state.

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